Choosing A Horse

Choose a horse will be one of the most important decisions that you ever undertaken in a spirit of you, and the horse - Take your time.

TO 50 i have been a little older than the average of the first time horse owner, that they have the right. I fell in love with a pretty small horse i had mounted on a riding holidays when he was in its own environment and I have been relaxed and had all the time in the world.

9 Months later, after many grief i admitted that it has been the wrong horse for my style of life and the experience and fortunately, he was able to go back to the original owner. Traumatic for me, but less for him as he was going back to where he was pleased.

Our delivered garden owner helped me decide what type of horse i was looking by whereas:

1. My horse experience.
2. Who, I would like to be able to mount with.
3. The grazing, parking and riding at my disposal.
4. How much time I have had horse care and training.
5. How much money I had to buy a horse and care for it.
6. What size horse i was comfortable with and was reasonable for me.
7. If I wanted a particular horse race or color.

We decided that on the basis of the foregoing, a traditional color gypsy horse would be ideal and found Amy, 5 years ex brood-mare. It has been road trained and mild with a beautiful paces, but has been insensitive to all commands standard horse training.

2 Years on I cannot imagine life without it. It may not be the most beautiful of horses around (although I think it is) and with a full-time employment of good tour, it adapts itself to whatever horse care and riding routine i need. We have had much pleasure improve our horse skills together and I hope that we will still be doing for many years to come.

Therefore not back and examine the points above before you choose your horse, as he/she will be account on you to make good decision.

Author : Mark Woodcock essential information for picking the right Horseback Riding Vacations at http://www.horseback-riding-vacation.info

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Time to get clean - Great Horse Washing Advice

Its show time!! Well, it will be after I get my horse washed and cleaned up. Why is it, that the harder you try to keep them clean (and grays are the worst), the dirtier they become??

Wel, I can't answer that. But I can give you a few hints on better washing technique, and how to avoid some of those show day mishaps (or at least how to cope with them).

Here is some equipment I like to have handy on washing day: - hose with adjustable jet, bucket, sponge, dandy brush, comb, body scraper, scissors, gum boots, hair bands (or horse bands), clean dry rugs, skinny hood (if required), vinegar (I will explain) and of course suitable shampoos, conditioners and highlighters.

Here is the procedure I have used for the 'day before' show washing of many State and National champions:

1. Brush or remove and obvious dirt, grass or twigs from your horse. This includes the tail.

2. Make sure your horse is securely tied in a suitable area (cement based washing bays, are great).

3. Hose your horse down (use warm water if available), starting with the front legs (giving the horse time to acclimatize to the water) and moving up the shoulder, neck, back legs rump and then barrel and back. Last wash the face, but do so carefully and gently.

4. Wash first with shampoo, using the dandy brush in a circular motion. Start with the shoulder; neck and then move down the body and legs (don't forget the other side!). Also do the tail and mane, which may need to be done twice.

5. Scrape off as much shampoo as possible; this will give you a better rinse result. And rinse thoroughly.

6. Re shampoo if necessary.

7. If using a white highlighting shampoo (the purple/blue stuff for the white/ gray markings) it is best applied at this point. It is fine to use all over the body but make sure you pay close attention to the white areas. You will need to work quickly as it can stain, don't use too much and rinse of thoroughly.

8. I normally find that conditioning the body is a waste of time and makes the coat a bit fluffy, but if you feel the need, do it now.

9. Next its time to condition the mane and tail. If you are plaiting/braiding your horse for competition you may want to avoid conditioning too heavily or avoid leaving the conditioner on for long.

10. For a tangle free tail, leave the conditioner in for a minute (if you can) and comb the tail, with the conditioner still in it. Then rinse well.

11. Here's where the vinegar comes in. Mix a solution of 1 part vinegar (white) to 5 parts warm water. Use this as a final conditioner and then rinse out. It works really well and removes any left over residue.

12. You can now use any colour high lighting treatment (available at good saddlery shops) at this point. I find that the chestnut ones work quite well, especially if the horse has been recently clipped (please note this is not a dye and therefore not illegal to use).

13. Do a final rinse and scrape any access water off.

14. Towel dry as best as you can, remember the legs!

15. Depending on the weather and horse, you maybe able to leave your horse out in the sun for a while.

16. Apply a clean dry rug and the skinny hood (make sure the mane and fore lock is lying flat) followed by some warm woolen stable rugs. This will help to dry your horse and keep them warm.

17. I have been known to pre warm the under rug in a dryer.

18. Plait the tail if require or use a tail bag to help keep it clean (I have had a few too many disasters with tail bags and tend not to use them. But they can work well with some horses).

19. Using float boots, bandages or specially made boots, wrap each leg (this is very handy with the horses that have white markings). Don't put them on too tight. You will be amazed at how clean you can keep your horse by this simple step (although some horses love to pull their boots off during the night).

20. Finally, once your horse is very dry, put it away in a clean stable or yard. Remember the rugs will need changing depending on the weather.

by Tina Williamson

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Why Difficulties In Horse Training A Good Thing

by Andy Curry

I'll never forget one of the first horses I trained by myself. I could not have picked a better horse to give me problems.

This horse was slow to motivate. He was very much his own "person" so to speak and was going to do what he pleased...at least...that's how it seemed.

There are plenty of horses in this world that will move when you want them to move. In fact, some horses can be so nervous it takes little effort to get them moving in the round pen. In a way, they almost train themselves.

When I was first training this horse he moved slowly and not very deliberately. Teaching him to drive was very difficult because he just wasn't going to move for me.

The first time I put a surcingle on him and attached the lines he had no more intention on moving forward than an elephant with no legs.

The lesson I was teaching was to move forward. When you want your horse to move then, obviously, you want him to move...not stand there.

A typical way to teach moving forward and associating the action with a command is to get behind your horse and to the left a little. Then give a slight pull on the left rein, then say "step" or "get up" and tap him on his rear end with the whip.

Most every horse I worked with, this technique worked well. But the technique failed with this horse.

Whenever I tapped him on the butt he would either stand there and blink his eyes or he would turn around and just look at me.

To the trained trainer it may seem he was balking. In fact, that's what I feared was happening.

The next thing I tried to get him moving was a hog slapper. A hog slapper is a small pole like aid with a handle on one end and two pieces of leather on the other end. When you slap the leather end against your boots it makes a loud slapping sound.

It was the loud slapping sound I was hoping would motivate the horse to move. Here's what happened.

Nothing.

The horse didn't take any steps forward to get away from it. It scared him a little the first two or three times I slapped it on my boot, but that's all it did.

Frustrated and bewildered I wasn't sure what to do next.

I began to analyze the situation. I knew the tap with the whip wasn't working so I didn't need to repeat trying it. I knew the hog slapper didn't work so I didn't need to repeat that either.

So I asked myself, "What can I use to motivate this horse to move?"

I got the answer from Jesse Beery.

Jesse Beery, a famous horse trainer from the 1800's, taught training a horse to drive in much the same way I do it. Even the tap on the rear end with the whip is the same.

In teaching a horse to overcome fears and desensitizing him to sounds, Beery prescribes using metal bowls strung together like a wind chime on rope. These bowls make quite a racket when you shake them. Used as Beery describes, they are extremely effective in horse training.

So I thought these noise makers would motivate my horse to move. After all, they are loud and obnoxious when they clank together and make noise.

So I tacked up the horse, grabbed my noise maker, and tried again.

As I was fumbling with the lines and the noise maker trying to get situated, I nearly dropped the noise maker and it made a pretty good racket. Almost the second it rattled, the horse moved away from it.

Immediately I had a glimmer of hope that this was my answer.

So I tried it all again. I gave a slight pull on the left line, I then said "get up", and then I rattled the bowls.

The result?

Nothing except the horse raising his head and looking behind him a little. But I knew that meant I was getting his attention.

So I tried it again.

This time, he took about 3 steps forward and stopped. I was thrilled. I walked up to him and rewarded him with a caress.

Then I stepped back and did it again.

It wasn't long before I didn't have to use my noise maker anymore. All I had to do was say "get up" and he'd move. Not only did he move, he moved with energy.

Although this horse was very frustrating I must admit I am grateful to him. Why? Because he taught me valuable lessons.

The first lesson I relearned was patience.

The second lesson was that not everything will work on the same way on every horse. This was a lesson I already knew but it was reinforced.

The third lesson learned was to reexamine what I knew about horses and use that knowledge to get him doing what I needed him to do. That's why I tried the noise maker.

I knew certain noises frighten horses so I decided to manipulate his fear with the noise maker. I also knew to be careful not to terrorize him. After all, you want to use as little of that kind of motivation as possible. Only use what is just enough.

Fourth, he taught me to keep looking for an answer because one exists even though I didn't know it at the time.

Fifth, if I ever run across another horse that's hard to motivate to move, then I will pull out my noise makers because it worked before.

As I patted myself on the back for coming up with the noise maker idea I was actually feeling grateful for having such a difficult horse. I realized having a difficult horse was a great teacher to me - and I have absolutely loved having difficult horses since.

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Alternative Therapies For The Horse

It is not uncommon that trends in veterinary medicine to mirror trends in human medicine. To that end, it's not surprising that alternative medicine is being used more frequently on sick and injured horses. Instead of prescribing the latest wonder drug, some veterinarians are instead prescribing a little hands-on healing in the hopes that less invasive techniques will bring about a return to health. In this article, we'll examine two alternative healing practices that are becoming very popular in the horse world: chiropractic and massage.

CHIROPRACTIC

Equine chiropractors traditionally deal with "subluxations" of the vertebrae. Defined, subluxations are incomplete or partial dislocations of the vertebrae; in other words, vertebrae that are out of alignment. These misalignments can not only cause the horse pain in his back, but can also cause soft tissue damage around the area of the spine. And since the spine is said to be the conduit to the central nervous system, subluxations may possibly change neurological function of the spinal cord, the spinal nerve roots, and portions of the nervous system. The equine chiropractor adjusts these subluxations—in plain speaking he put the spine back into alignment—and returns the horse to optimal health.

What conditions does chiropractic treat?

Chiropractic is used to treat back and neck pain in the horse, as well as nerve damage. It can also be used to diagnose and come up with a treatment plan for certain lamenesses. Some people even use chiropractic during prepurchase exams to determine whether the horse has any neck or back injuries.

How is chiropractic administered, and how much does it cost?

Like a vet exam, the chiropractic exam begins with a case history. Posture analysis, gait analysis, static palpation, motion palpation, orthopedic exam, and a neurological exam follow. Based upon his or her findings, the vertebra is then manipulated during the adjustment by the practitioner.

How much does a chiropractic treatment cost?

A chiropractic exam and adjustment cost approximately $50-75, depending upon the extent of the problem and the length of the session.

Are there any risks?

Some believe that in the wrong hands, chiropractic can cause back and neck pain, lameness problems, and spinal cord injury. The equine chiropractor must have strong knowledge of equine vertebral anatomy, including vertebral joint relationships, the relationship of neural components, muscle attachments and nerve supply, and normal and abnormal range of motion.

MASSAGE

During a massage, the soft tissues of the body are worked by experienced hands and fingers. As any human who has been the recipient of one knows, massage stimulates acupuncture points and relieves tension. Myofascial release therapy, in which the fascia that connect and surround the muscles are manipulated, and myotherapy, a method of relaxing muscle spasm, improving circulation, and alleviating pain, are two of the most common types of equine massage therapy.

What conditions does massage treat?

Massage can really help sore muscles and tendons. It is frequently used to repair damaged muscle fiber, such as contracted tendons, ligament and muscle strains, chronic inflammatory conditions, peripheral nerve injuries, scar tissue, and chronic edema.

How is massage administered?

The soft tissues of the body are worked by the hands and fingers. The strokes are generally performed in the direction in which blood flows, which is toward the heart.

How much does equine massage cost?

A massage costs between $25 and $75, depending upon its duration.

What are the risks?

If your horse has acute inflammatory processes of the skin, soft tissue, bone and joints, fractures, sprains, circulatory disorders, presence or danger of hemorrhage, lyphangitis, and tumors, then massage should be avoided.

by: Ron Petracek

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Contracted heels and horse lameness causes

One of the biggest problems with horses and lameness is the condition of long toes. This condition results when the toe of the hoof is not trimmed back. When this happens the length of the toe grows forward which then pulls the heels forward as well. The hoof stretch forward causes the heels of the hoof to squeeze inward hence the contracted heel. Contraction is a narrowing while the heels moving forward with the toe is called sheered heels. None of these conditions are desirable and all can lead to lameness. Some of the greatest concern lies in the stresses on the navicular bones and deep flexor tendon. There are proper methods to repair the hoof to its correct and natural state thereby reducing the lameness. Horseshoeing is a very detailed involved and complicated craft and when not performed correctly will lead to lameness. You simply don't want that to happen. Check in the author bio where you can find out the hows to prevent lameness, you won't be sorry. thank you

About the Author

john silveira , San Mateo Ca. Native resident graduated from what's considered the worlds greatest horseshoeing school has gone on to discover the truths about shoeing not taught in the textbooks and schools. to date has a 100% track record "not one single lame horse" find out how at http://Farrieritis.Care4Horses.com

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Disasters of pigeon toed horses

Good Day , after Thanksgiving. Here is a quick way to discover if your horse is at risk of lameness due to having pigeon toes. There is a missconception as to exactly what pigeon toes actually are. Your horse can have feet that point straight ahead which is considered textbook perfect conformation yet still be pigeon toed. Here's how to find out the truth. 1. Stand directly in front of your horse. 2. Look at your horses knees - take careful consideration of where the knees point. Do they point straight ahead or do they point out to the side. There's a 98% chance the knees point outward. 3. slide your glance down the leg to the feet, pay close attention to where the feet are pointing - not look back up to the knees , then back down to the feet, do this several times until you find out the relationship between where the knee points to where the feet point. 4. The chance is 98% or greater your horses feet point inward while the knees point outward. You have established undeniably the horse is pigeon toed, even if the feet point straight ahead. At 98% this is a very prevelant problem with horses in too many cases leading to lameness and many times permanent lameness. The problem now is the "Correction" so your horse won't become lame. Industry standards teach methods that make matters worse - you don't want to rely on that. simply find out the truth by going to the website links listed in the Author Bio. You may also recieve consultation personally there at no cost. Free. thank you

About the Author

John Silveira born and currently residing in San Mateo California Graduated from what's considered the worlds best horseshoeing school went on to discover for himself the hidden truths about shoeing not taught in the horseshoeing schools and textbooks. To date has a 17 year 100% track record "Not one Single Lame Horse" due to the breakthrough method he uses. Find out more at http://Farrieritis.Care4Horses.com

by John Silveira

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Pet Insurance & Public Liability – Are You Safe From A Personal Injury Compensation Claim?

Are you one of the million of Britons famous the world over for being a pet owner and lover? If so, do you have pet insurance? If not, you may well want to read on if you want to save yourself millions of pounds….

Let’s look at two, not uncommon, scenarios that may happen to a pet owner in the UK:

Scenario 1:

You own a dog. The dog is out in the garden. The post comes to the house to deliver a letter. In the course of delivering the letter your dog bites the postman.

Scenario 2:

You own a horse. The horse is grazing in the field. The horse is startled, jumps the hedge and crashes into an oncoming car.

Do you know what would happen in both of these scenarios? Well, if you don’t already know, as you may recall from the recent famous case involving Princess Anne, in Scenario 1 you could be liable to pay damages under the Dangerous Dogs Act. Less well known, in Scenario 2 you could be liable to pay damages under a recent House of Lords interpretation to the Animal Act 1971. Either way, you’re paying.

How can you limit the liability you’ll suffer if either of these unfortunate events where to occur? Without some form of pet insurance policy you could not. As such, if you have a pet and want to save yourself from the prospect of having to pay out a potentially large amount of money in compensation damages to a third party – now is the time that you should be considering getting pet insurance.

Although pet insurance is unlikely to cover you for the full costs you that you may need to pay to both defend your self against a claim and also pay compensation if you lose, as there is likely to be a minimum excess payment and maximum cap payment, for a reasonable annual premium payment you can arrange to have cover that would pay a large portion of this amount.

At the end of the day, however, having pet insurance is like having any other type if insurance. Would you go out n the roads and drive your car without insuring yourself against an accident? Would you leave all your valuables at home without having any home contents insurance? Do you want to take the chance that you could be used for million in personal injury compensation without having paid a minimal amount in pet insurance?

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Does Your Horse's Saddle Fit?

Is your horse exhibiting uncharacteristic performance or behavior issues? Well then, check his saddle. Badly fitting saddles account for a vast array of issues in the horse. Yet they often go undetected, either because people don't recognize the signs and symptoms of an improperly fitting saddle, or because they have no idea how to fix the problem.

This lack of knowledge can hurt our horses physically, diminish their ability to reach their full potential, and even label them as unpleasant or dangerous characters. Of course, saddle fit can't be blamed for all behavior and performance issues in the horse, but it is something that should always be considered. If you don't have the knowledge to determine whether your horse's saddle fits, enlist the help of a competent saddle fitter right away.

Signs, Signs, Everywhere Signs

How do you know if your horse's saddle is uncomfortable? Easy. What does he have to say about it? Sure, your horse won't be able to communicate with you verbally. But his body language should tell you all you need to know if you take the time to listen. Ask yourself the following questions:

* Are the muscles in the top loin overly developed?

* Is the lower part of your horse's neck thicker than the top part because he hollows his back?

* Are the muscles in the hollow region behind my horse's shoulder diminished or atrophied from the nerves and muscles being pinched?

* When relaxing, does my horse have a dropped or sway back?

* Is there swelling or heat under the saddle area upon removal of the saddle?

* Is there raw or rubbed skin anywhere in the saddle area?

* Are there any white marks or bare patches on his back?

Once you've taken a good look at your horse, ask yourself the following questions about his behavior:

* Does he seem stiff?

* Does he hold his head high and stiff, and does he seem unwilling to accept the bit or rider's aids?

* Does he seem unwilling?

* Is he hard to catch?

* Does he jump around when being groomed, especially when you are grooming the back area?

* Does he hollow his back, buck, or move away when saddled?

* Does he dislike being girthed?

* Does he jig when being mounted?

* Does he toss his head while under saddle?

* Does he refuse to walk calmly on a long rein?

* Is he irritable in general?

* Does he have a hard time walking up or down hills?

* Are his gaits uneven?

* Does he have difficulty with one lead over another?

* Is he stiff on corners, bends, or circles?

* Does he have trouble getting down and back up again?

If you answered yes to more than one or two questions do your horse a big favor. Don't ride him under saddle again until a qualified vet or chiropractor has evaluated him. If your horse is diagnosed with back problems it is important to note that the saddle is not always to blame. However, taking a good constructive look at your saddle and how it fits your horse is a good place to start.

Good Saddle Fit

A saddle should fit both horse and rider, but don't think that just because you find it comfy your horse does too. How do you know if your horse's saddle fits? Check out the following tips:

* Sitting in the saddle with a relaxed seat and legs, check to make sure you have enough room to put your hand on your thigh between your legs and the pommel. You should also be able to fit the width of your hand between the back of your body and the rear arch. With the stirrups at the normal length, there should be an imaginary line gong through your shoulder, to your hip, to the center of your horse's balance, and finally, to your heel. So now we know the saddle fits you!

* But does it fit your horse? First of all, it should never interfere with your horse's movement in any way. There must be no contact between the saddle and the spine, which means you should see a clear channel of daylight down the spine from withers to loins.

* Check the width and length. With your weight in the saddle you should be able to fit two-and-a-half or three fingers between the pommel and the horse's withers. If there is space for four fingers the tree is too narrow. If there is space for two, it is too wide. Check to see how far the saddle goes toward your horse's hip bone. It should not be so long that it rubs the hip.

* The saddle should be stable and should never rock back and forth.

* Never commit to a saddle before taking it on a lengthy ride. There is no substitute for riding in it when it comes to finding a saddle that fits well

A comfortable saddle keeps your horse healthy in both mind and body. Now watch how far the two of you go!

About The Author

Ron Petracek is the founder of Equine Internets vast 15 site classified and social network. You can view its amazing size here Http://www.equineinternet.com/network.php or to further your equine habit please visit our forum by clicking here http://www.horsechitchat.com/equineforums and start posting Need to sell a horse or tack? place a free ad here http://www.click4equine.com and always the barn door in left open on purpose.

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What is horse Good Conformation?

Conformation—the way a horse is put together—will determine not only how sound a horse remains throughout his life, but will also determine to what extent he will excel at his particular discipline. While some points of conformation vary with the type of horse and what job he is doing, there are some general rules of conformation that most horsemen agree on.

Feet

Feet should be large enough to support the horse and his weight, and the hoof wall should be hard but not brittle. The front feet and the back feet should appear to be symmetrical from all angles. The sole should be slightly concave, and heels should be even where they join the sole.

Legs

Legs should be straight. Legs that are out of alignment can result in soundness problems, as the forces that travel up the leg of the horse as he moves will affect other parts of the body, depending upon where legs deviate. Legs should also be symmetrical, with no bumps or bulges. Each pair of legs should also match each other.

Joints

Good joints are imperative to any horse who performs. Joints should have the correct axis, and they should be symmetrical, free of lumps, cool to the touch, and should be in proportion to the size of the horse. If one joint seems too large it should be examined for injury. If all joints seem too large the horse should be examined by a veterinarian for nutritional or metabolic problems. From the front view, a line dropped from the point of the shoulder to the ground should bisect the knee, fetlock, and hoof. From the side view, the line from the front of the fetlock, along the top of the pastern, and continuing along the front of the foot to the ground should be straight.

Shoulder

Good shoulder conformation will depend upon what the horse is being used for, as shoulder slope and how long the shoulder is varies with breed type and use. As a general rule of thumb, horses used for speed should have a long, sloping shoulder, while those used for power have more upright shoulders.

Withers

Since withers are what keeps a well in place, any ridden horse needs to have appropriate withers. Horses with flat withers, often called mutton withers, often have difficulty being ridden up and down hills, but can sometimes fare well on the flat. Poorly conformed withers can cause pain in the ridden horse and can lead to unsoundness.

Hip

The angle and length of the hip should match the angle and hip of the shoulder. While short hip lengths rarely cause unsoundness they can negatively impact speed and power.

Back and Neck

The long back versus short back debate continues depending upon the use of the horse. While long-backed horses do tire more easily, they can be more comfortable to ride. Long-backed horses can also excel at jumping because of the scope the long back allows them. Long backs also allow more movement in the horse's legs, which is why many long-backed horses excel at driving.

The length, shape, and way a horse's neck connects to the chest and the back will vary depending upon the breed and use of the horse. Horses who run need longer necks, while horses who show in park or pleasure classes often benefit from aesthetically pleasing upright necks.

Eyes

Horses need big, well-placed eyes. Horses with small eyes may suffer from impaired vision or have a medical problem. Eyes should not be set too far toward the sides of the head, otherwise peculiar fields of vision are sure to be an issue.

Nostrils

The nostrils should be open and symmetrical, to allow for maximum air intake. Horses with extremely dished heads or thick necks sometimes have difficulty taking in the right amount of air despite nostril size, so make sure you take these things into consideration.

About The Author

Ron Petracek is the founder of Equine Internets vast 15 site classified and social network. You can view its amazing size here Http://www.equineinternet.com/network.php or to further your equine habit please visit our forum by clicking here http://www.horsechitchat.com/equineforums and start posting Need to sell a horse or tack? place a free ad here http://www.click4equine.com and always the barn door in left open on purpose.

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Horse Care & Stabling

There are a lot of considerations in your goal of safe surroundings and room to roam in the company and security of other horses. By its nature a horse is most relaxed while grazing leisurely. So a fenced in paddock without grass is not ideal in the horse's terms, although he may tend to move about more playing with a mate in the paddock. A pasture suited to a horse will fend off many injuries and health problems.

Stabling Your Horse

Whether a horse can be stabled depends on the work he will be doing and his breed. Certain breeds that have thinner skin and ancestry from very warm climates are not hardy and must be stabled during the coldest of winter. Such breeds would be Thoroughbreds, Arabs and Andalusians. A stable blanket fitted to them may be needed too. Whenever a horse is required to do hard work or endurance it should be stabled and fed accordingly.

A stall-kept horse is protected from inclement weather, especially cold and rain. The added security of knowing where your horse is and having convenient access to her is better than having her out of sight and difficult or impossible to catch. She will be cleaner as she will not be running or rolling in mud and water. You don't have to sustain a pasture of edible grasses and depend on rainfall, or live on acreage. The possibility of your horse eating poisonous plants or trees is erased. Also, she won't suffer from high level contamination of worms from a field overgrazed over many years.

She would never suffer from laminitus by eating too much newly sown grass. You will be able to carefully control what food she ingests. This is especially useful for an active horse needing grains. Cold weather may cause agitation in the form of "the need to move" to get circulation going. Ample bedding encourages lying down to provide warmth and completely rest her. See why it's called bedding! Covering the floor also removes the harsh long-term effect of standing on a hard floor.

Various types of stall flooring to choose from follow. Studies have shown that horses differ in their own preference.

Straw: It is economical and can be spread over fields to dispose of. The best comes from stems of oats, wheat, rye or barley. It drains easily and is usually pretty widely available but is highly inflammable.

Wood Shavings and Sawdust: They provide a hygienic bed and don't contain spores like straw, as long as it is the dust free kind. If your horse develops respiratory problems it is an alternative to straw. They are commonly stored in bags, so they can be outside. Drawbacks to shavings are that they are slow drying and heavy when wet.

Wood Pellets: Their cost is initially more expensive than wood shavings but they result in less waste because they last a long time. The pellets are hard and appear uncomfortable, but a sprinkle with the water hose expands them into fluffy bedding.

Hemp: The core of the stalk of this plant is exceptionally absorbent. It benefits horses with dust allergies. After 6 weeks it will rot down to a favorable compost. It is legally grown in Canada. Your horse will not smoke it though. Shredded Paper: This is the most dust free and is often used for performance horses. It should be laid down as a deep bed as it saturates quickly.

Peat Moss: This, where available, can be comfortable and easily disposed of. It doesn't burn, but is expensive and its dark color makes wet areas hard to find. Rubber Matting: It does not provide protection from cold. When wet it does not absorb but is low cost. If cleaned frequently with a hose mucking is quick.

Keeping A Pasture: A field allows your horse to roam at will; but even in a large field a horse is accident-prone. Fencing is a factor in keeping horses safe. The best is wooden post and rail.

It must be sturdy since horses may rub against it. A tall, thick hedge works well, protecting against wind, rain and snow and providing some shade. Wire fencing may be used, but the lowest wire must not be close to the ground as a hoof will get caught in it. Never use barb wire as a horse could run into it. Gates should not open to busy roads, and a horse-proof catch is needed; as is a chain and padlock to deter horse thieves. The width of a gate should be 6 feet so your horse doesn't bang itself passing through.

A shelter, such as a multiangled screen 6 feet high, needs to be built with its back to the prevailing wind away from fencing. A wooded area is some protection but tends to attract more horseflies in the summer. A turnout blanket can be used to keep your horse dry and warm and a facemask in summer for flies.

All paddocks should be checked for poisonous plants, trees and shrubs. The most dangerous is ragwort. Clean water must always be accessible. The ideal would be an unpolluted stream or river. Stagnant ponds should be fenced off. A galvanized water trough is ok and must be completely refilled every week, even if horses won't be there as it is a mosquito breeding area. Check on it every day and be prepared to break ice 2 to 3 times a day if cold. Never place it in a corner where horses could trap each other. The ground around it will be subject to much wear as horses drink a lot. Get a sturdy container that won't get knocked over.

Ideally, a field has grasses from seeds selected and mixed with horses in mind. Rye, creeping red fescue, crested dog's tail, meadow grass, wild white clover and timothy are all good. Well-drained soil is best. Horses bite close to the ground and overgrazing results in barren areas alternating with patches of weeds. This will turn to mud in wet weather, so management is important. The quality of of grazing will depend on soil type, rain, wind and altitude. Get the soil tested.

Remove or harrow droppings to control worm infestation. Rest the pasture periodically. If large enough divide it into sections: one for the horses and the other allow to be renewed or fertilized. Harrowing in the spring encourages new growth by removing dead plants. The best home for any horse is to have a stall along with a field to allow him to get exercise and eat natural grasses at least part of each day. Good luck to you and your horse!

About the Author

Horse Care & Stabling Written by writerrighter. at Zestbit.com | How to Get and share answers.

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How To Get Your Horse From Pulling Back While Tied

Some people have horses they don't dare tie. Why? Because they break their halters and/or crossties. So what is a person to do in their horse training practices?

My first suggestion is to get a rope halter. But not just any ol' rope halter. Get one of those rope halters that are thin because they cut into the horse's poll more if they pull back. It sends a message to the horse that's it's not desirable to pull back.

When you get the rope halter on, tie the lead rope to the halter. Try not to use hardware on the lead rope if possible'instead tie it to the halter.

Next, try tying the lead rope to a tree limb. Find a limb that's about as thick as your forearm. You want the tree limb to bend some because as the horse pulls back the limb gives but doesn't break.

A good type of tree to tie to is a willow tree if you can find one. Be careful that the limb isn't cracked. If the horse pulls back on the limb and it breaks you could really have a wreck.

Leave about two feet of rope between the heel knot and the limb you tie to.

Now here's how it works. If the horse pulls back, the limb will bend. This lessens the resistance and lessens the desire to pull. Once the horse stops pulling, the limb pulls back creating pressure much like a giant rubber band. It causes him to step forward. He will soon get sore around his nose and his neck if keeps pulling.

What you're after is the horse being uncomfortable when he pulls back. Not only do we want him to have the inability to break loose we want it to be uncomfortable. We're wanting Mr. Horse to think to himself that it's crazy to even try to pull back

If you can't find a good tree limb to tie to, you can use an inner tube. Make sure it's good and strong and that you tie it to something good and secure

What's important now is you must tie up your horse several hours a day ? preferably all day, day after day until he is cured of it. There's only time to untie your horse. If he struggles and gets in a bind where he could be in danger of breaking a leg or neck or choking to death then you untie him.

So once you tie him, you gotta watch him for a while and make sure he's not going to get himself hurt.

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About the author: Andy Curry is a nationally known horse trainer and author of several best selling horse training and horse care books. For information visit his website at www.horsetrainingandtips.com. He is also the leading expert on Jesse Beery's horse training methods which can be seen at www.horsetrainingandtips.com/Jesse_Beerya.

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A Quick Look At Portuguese Saddles

Portugal has long been considered by many in the world of equine sports to be the cradle of classic horsemanship. Here's a quick look at several different types of Portuguese saddles.

Dinis saddle The Dinis saddle is a saddle that combines great tradition and innovation in saddle-making. It has a structure from dressage saddles directed to the Portuguese equitation and following the design principles from the Portuguese traditional saddles.

Domingues saddle A Domingues saddle is considered by horsemen to be a multipurpose saddle. It's an innovation having an intermediate design falling somewhere between English riding saddles and the traditional Portuguese Relvas saddle.

Portuguese Equitation saddle The Portuguese Equitation saddle is a very popular saddle and has a structure directed to the Portuguese equitation. It closely follows design principles associated with several other Portuguese traditional saddles.

Portuguese saddle The standard saddle know simply as a the Portuguese saddle has a design that has evolved from the saddles that were used in the 18th century.

Relvas saddle The design from the Relvas saddle is attributed to Carlos Relvas who lived in the 19th century. Relvas and was a wealthy landowner, sportsman, photographer, bullfighter and the father of Jos� Relvas who became an influential politician in the beginning of the twentieth century.

Ribatejo saddle The Ribatejo saddle has an intermediate design. One falls somewhere between the two most traditional Portuguese saddles, the Portuguese saddle and the Relvas saddle.

Academia Maestro Saddle This is a new saddle for the demanding rider in classical dressage. Manufactured specifically for the needs of the academic rider and the baroque horse. It has been designed and developed by actual riders and combines up to date knowledge in saddle construction with traditional saddle craftsmanship.

This has been a quick look at several of the more popularly used Portuguese saddles used by horsemen.

About the Author

Portuguese saddles

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The Benefits of the Catit Drinking Fountain for Your Pets

The pleasures of having animals share your house and life are many. Anybody that own a pet knows the feeling of coming home on a late winters night cold and tired after work only to be greeted with such happiness by their pet. Studies have long shown that living with animals provides us with quite a variety of physical and emotional benefits. In todays fast paced life stress and depression have become big business and unfortunately common place. It has been shown that living with a pet or pets reduces our likelihood of suffering from depression. The least we can do for our animals in return for the love and good health they give us is to give them plenty of love, shelter, food and a plentiful supply of clean water.

The Catit Drinking Fountain is a revolutionary development that provides pets with a fresh long lasting water supply. As any keen outdoor enthusiast will tell you, if you are stuck for water never drink from still stagnant water, always try and find a source of flowing water. It has been stated that most animals seem to prefer to drink from flowing water than still water. Have you ever seen a cat go to take a drink from it's bowl only after it has checked the surface gently with its paw just to check it really is water? You wont see a cat doing this with flowing water, because it can see by the movement that it is water. This is where the Catit drinking fountain comes in. It is basically a dome shaped fountain sitting in a bowl, where the water is pushed up the center by a small pump and then runs down constantly over the dome. Imagine a fine layer of water running down over rocks, just like in the wilderness.

The benefits for the cat of this type of drinking fountain are many. Firstly the Catit drinking fountain has a small filter between the dome fountain and the bowl, so that when water is circulated back into the pump it is first filtered by a carbon filter insert. This makes for clean water all the time and eliminates the problem of insects or other foreign objects falling into the water and making it undrinkable. Because the fountain provides a large surface area for the water to flow down the water is kept cool and oxygenated all the time. Even in summer the water seems to stay nice and cool, much cooler than if it were sitting still in a bowl. Providing your pets, cats in particular, with enough fresh drinking water is essential to the long term health of your pets, especially their kidneys.

The only real downside of the Catit is the noise the pump makes sometimes. But this only happens when the water is almost empty and takes a quick fill-up to fix. With the 3 litre capacity the Catit fountain can last for 5 or 6 days without needing a refill. When the fountain has a normal water level the fountain actually makes quite a peaceful and relaxing running water sound.

The Catit would be a great gift for any pet owner to their pets, with the added benefit that you get to marvel at your pets drinking from the fountain. If you would like more details on the Catit Drinking Fountain, please click here.

Thank you for reading. http://www.catit-drinking-fountain.com

About the Author

John Roland is a non-biased reviewer of online products for the general public.

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Horse Classifieds Online

Nowadays, you can find almost, if not everything you need online. A quick simple search on Google will pull out thousands of results you can therefore rummage through to find exactly what it is you need. Why should horses be any different? You should be able to find horses for sale online right?

Well, yes you are right. In the past couple of years more and more websites that allow you to buy or sell horses online have been popping up on the internet. Actually, I think it is now difficult to determine which websites to sell your horses on, because of the wide selection now available.

Don't despair, there is a way to choose which websites to use. These horse selling websites are commonly known as horse classifieds and all employ different models and systems. There are some that allow you to post free ads with free photos, some ask you to post free text ads with paid photos and some just ask you to pay for your ad upfront with the photos already included.

If you are a buyer and are looking to deal with serious sellers only, I would recommend you stick to the horse classifieds that ask the seller to pay upfront for the ads and the photos too. If on the other hand you are willing to risk dealing with some amateur sellers then you can indeed look for horses for sale on the free horse classified websites.

Here are 3 places you can find horses for sale online...

1. Equine.com - They allow free text ads. If the seller wants to include photos or any other features there are different packages they can select, depending on what they need.

2. HorseTopia.com - They allow free text classifieds. If the seller wants to include photos they have to pay an extra fee.

3. EquineHits.com - They allow free photo classifieds. A seller is required to register and create an account before listing their horse for sale.

There are definitely more places you can go to look for horses for sale online but the websites above are the classifieds that seem to get more traffic and also more new horses listed every single day. Whatever horse breed you are looking for, should be available as well as many other breeds you never knew existed.

About the Author

If you are looking for more horse classifieds, check out our site: www.A1HorseClassifieds.com

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Pet Insurance : What To Look For

Keeping a pet is a rewarding experience which many of us enjoy, but it can also be expensive. As well as all the routine costs such as food and grooming, you can also come up against unplanned expenses such as vetinary bills through sickness or accident. These bills can unfortunately be very high, so to ensure that their pets can get the treatment they need many people decide that taking out pet insurance is a sensible way of helping to cushion these costs. But what should you be looking for in a pet insurance policy?

The first thing to consider is what kind of pet you have. The cheapest kind of pet insurance is that for the most common pets - cats and dogs. Prices for these policies can be very reasonable indeed, amounting to only the cost of a few tins of pet food a month. If, however, you keep a more unusual kind of animal as a pet, then the price you pay may well be higher. Make sure that any policy you take out specifically includes your kind of pet, as many will exclude more 'exotic' kinds of animal.

The main reason for considering pet insurance is cover for medical treatment, but there are some exclusions that you need to be aware of. Firstly, your policy will almost certainly not cover routine treatments such as vaccinations, flea control, or worming. Secondly, you won't be covered for any pre-existing conditions that were already known about when you took out the policy (you should also declare any existing conditions when you take out the policy, or you risk it being declared invalid when you come to make a claim).

You also need to check your policy for claim limits: there may be a time limit of cover, so for example a long-term condition such as arthritis may only be covered for a period of 12 months, after which you will be responsible for meeting the bills. There is also usually a limit to the total cost of medical bill claims you make in any one year, but this is usually high enough to cover almost any conceivable situation.

Another major reason for taking out insurance is to help you cover the costs of getting your pet back if it goes missing. Most policies will contribute towards advertising in local newspapers etcetera, and also to providing reward money for the safe return of your pet.

Another very important part of your insurance cover is public liability, especially for dog owners. Even the calmest and most well behaved of pets could possibly cause damage to someone's property, or even cause an injury to a person. In this thankfully rare event, you could be open to huge legal bills and compensation claims - make sure that your policy includes a substantial amount of third party liability cover as standard.

Finally, check whether the policy you're considering places a limit on the age of your pet. Many policies are only available to, for example, cats up until the age of eight years. As it is in later years that your pet is most likely to need treatment, it obviously makes sense to ensure your policy will cover this, especially if your pet has a few years under their belt!

By: Nicholas Hunt

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Looking for an unusual pet? Try these three beasties!

A lot of people go for pets that are cute and cuddly—kittens, puppies, hamsters… you know the drill. If you’re like me though, you like to try pets that are a bit unusual—the kind that make you stand out in a crowd. They help you start interesting conversations, and they let people know that you’re the kind of person who blazes his own trail.

If you’re looking for an unusual pet, here are my top three recommendations:

1. Bearded dragons. Lizards are nice; they don’t generally freak people out the way snakes or spiders do, and some of them are very docile. Iguanas are very popular, but they can grow to be six feet long, which means that they will require massively large cages. Leopard geckos are also nice, but they tend to be much smaller—only up to about eight inches in length. In contrast, the most common variety of bearded dragon gets to be about two feet long, making it impressively large but not unwieldy.

2. Chaco golden knee tarantulas. Forget the common pet-store variety tarantulas. The chaco golden knee get to be much larger – about 8.5 inches in legspan – and is among the most docile of tarantula species. It’s also fairly easy to take care of, which is why I strongly recommend it.

3. Don’t like the creepy, crawly types? Then try a tank of mudskippers! These unusual fish live in brackish water, but are capable of crawling up on land for extended periods of time. Just place them an aquarium that only filled halfway with water, and give them some surfaces to climb on – some pieces of driftwood or some plastic lilypads, for example. The fellas are freaky and fun to watch! They're not easily found in pet stores, but they can be purchased off the Internet if you just search around a bit.

To paraphrase an old ad slogan, "Try them! You'll like them!"

By: dekanos

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Animals for Adoption Create Beautiful Friendships

If you are looking for a pet to keep you company, you can find the perfect one by looking at the animals for adoption at your local animal shelter. A lot of lovable animals in local shelters are sitting in their small cages, waiting for people who may want to keep them as pets. Stray animals of all kinds end up as animals for adoption in animal shelters. Most of them are family pets that irresponsible owners have neglected or abandoned.

In the past I only wanted to have purebred animals as pets and I make it a point to know about the animal’s bloodline. After visiting a shelter with my sister, my views about hybrid animals changed completely. My sister recently lost her husband and she wants to have a pet to comfort her. I went along to give her some moral support and to help her choose the animal she needs. Seeing the situation of animals for adoption in that shelter, broke my heart and almost brought tears to my eyes.

I did not realize how irresponsible people can be with their pets. These animals for adoption need to have love and proper care. Here I was, spending a lot of money for my fancy purebred cat when there are hundreds of animals that need attention. The shelter keepers told me that the number of animals in the shelter have been increasing steadily over the years . This year they have trouble finding enough food and space for them. Most of them find their way to the shelter after the Christmas holiday. Most of them were given as presents to rotten kids who abandon them after a few weeks.

That day at the shelter, made me decide that I have to care for one of those poor animals for adoption. I prefer to have cats as pets because my tight schedule does not give me the time to care properly for a dog. As I was looking at the animals, a playful kitten came up to me and meowed. I immediately fell in love in love with her. Later at night as I watched her play with a ball, she looked up and meowed at me again. I can’t help but smile knowing that I made the right decision.

If I had only known that there were so many animals for adoption waiting to be part of a family, I would have adopted one earlier. Perhaps I might add another cat to my family next year. I hope that more people would think about helping those animals for adoption by taking them into their homes and giving them the love and attention they need. I also hope that people would take better care of their pets so that the poor animals won’t end up in sad animal shelters.

By: Morgan Hamilton

Morgan Hamilton offers expert advice and great tips regarding all aspects concerning Animals for Adoption. Visit our site for more helpful information about Animals for Adoption and other similar topics.

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Your Horse Guide

Whether you are a horse owner or a simple horse lover, you should find an abundance of information and fun facts. Learn about the history of the horses, horse riding skills and how to care for you’re horse.

We offer insight and guidelines on buying all your horse apparel like horse blankets, saddles and bridles. Your Horse Guide even has a tack list with descriptions and covers horse anatomy. They might not be the most exciting of topics, but we like to cover horse topics from head to tail!

We love horses and we love to share our knowledge base with you.

We also have information on horse breeding, explaining live cover and artificial insemination. We look at how to choose a stallion for your mare and the cost of breeding.

Your Horse Guide has details on the various horse sports of English and Western Riding. You can learn about dressage, Eventing and natural horsemanship. Our knowledge base is always expanding.

Every horse rider should know about safety. We inform you on safety for both the horse and rider and give a good list for a well stocked veterinary kit. Riding is a marvelous pleasure, but skirting on safety and lead to unnecessary injury. Read up on safety and be prepared.

Anyone interested in riding horses can benefit from a horse riding lesson. Your Horse Guide gives you a general breakdown of a lesson and what to expect. Not to mention the clothes you need, being properly outfitted certainly prevents chaffing.

Caring for a horse is at first quite a task to undertake, so many things to do and consider. We offer a guide to grooming and supplies, tack supplies, feeding your horse and stabling your horse. What you should know before buying a horse is how much responsibility you can muster. Sometimes it is better for the horse if you have him kept in a yard or stable where other people do all the work!

Horses are pure pleasure, but they are work too. Your Horse Guide walks you through the aspects of the life of a horse. We hope to inspire, entertain and inform our visitors so that they are knowledgeable and apt to make easier decisions.

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About the Author: Are you ready to buy a horse? Your Horse Guide is here to back you up! Get information on buying, owning and caring for your horse, learn about stabling a horse.

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Thinking Of Buying A Horse?

There is so much excitement and anticipation in the very art of buying a horse. It is certainly a task not to be taken lightly. A horse is certainly not as easy to drop off at your local shelter as a cat is. When you buy a horse it should be genuine, not a spur of the moment whim.

The biggest consideration when buying a horse is where to keep him. Investigating local stables and yards, finding out the fee and what you are paying for is an important step to make the transition easier. I have yet to find a stable that pays for horse shoeing, unless it is on their horses!

Once you’ve settled on a place to keep your horse, you can then indulge yourself in finding a good horse. Horses are easy enough to come by, but not all horses are alike. We know that all horses bite, it is a fact horse owners rarely think about. However when buying a horse it is a tidbit to keep handy.

Some horses due to cruel handling, neglect or an aggressive streak will bite. Biting is a bad habit called a vice, horses that bite do not make a good first horse purchase. There is fact in the saying “once bitten twice shy”!

Read up on vices so you know one when you see one and if the current owner says the horse crib bites, you’ll know what that means and whether it is a vice you can live with. Remember the horse is yours and will be your responsibility once you purchase it.

Like humans you have horses in good health and others in questionable health. Some owners will try to sell a horse when they find out his health is less than perfect. The horse could have been in a field and cut his leg. Seems like an every day possibility but depending on where and how severe the cut, he could have done permanent damage. He would thus have a weakness and be prone to lameness.

It is always a good idea to have a veterinarian inspect the horse you want to purchase. That way any possibility of ill health can be brought to your attention and you are in control of taking on the responsibility or not.

Find out if people know about the horse and let them tell you their view of the horse. What is he like on an every day basis when a prospective buyer is not looking? Some horses are lunged to tire them out before a buyer comes to ride…

Yes, riding is sure a very important step when buying a horse! I was so desperate to buy my first horse that I overlooked this step and regretted it every day of the two years I owned the horse. Sometimes you can simply get sold by the look of a horse…

Make sure you buy a good horse that is right for you. The best way to do that is to read and gain knowledge of horses. Take a trainer or experienced horse person with you, but be sure to trust your instinct and have the knowledge to make the best decision for you. Turns out the person I took with me to buy my first horse was really looking for something they wanted.

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About the Author: Horses. Get information on buying, owning and caring for your horse, learn about buying a horse.

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