Freshwater Aquarium Maintenance
What Is Algae?
Algae is often referred to as a plant, in fact algae is a complex unicellular organism referred to as a protist in the eukatyotic kingdom. Sorry to use such long words but basically it is not a plant it does however share the same ancestors.
Algae appears in a number of different colours and forms. The most common is as a green film over the surface of the aquarium glass but it can be brown, red or blue-green and it can coat the plants,gravel rocks etc. as well as the glass.
Types include:
Brown Algae - often appears in newly setup tanks and can disappear as quickly as it arrived
Green Algae - Likely to appear in any properly running tank
Hard 'Green Dot' Algae
Hair Algae - Long greenish or grey strands which can be removed with a toothbrush. Algae eatnig fish also like it
Red/Brush Algae - Often appears on plants and can be removed using a weak bleach solution. Can be the result of overfeeding your fish
Green Water - Also called 'Algae bloom'. It is a suspension of microscopic algae. Water changes and low light for a few days normally gets rid of it
Blue-green Algae (cyanobacteria) - This is not a true algae. It appears as a slimy coating smothering plants. It can release harmul toxins. It is easily removed manually. Fish will not eat it and sometimes increased aeration helps to prevent it.
Green algae is to some extent inevitable and is not always a bad thing. Algae needs both light and nutrients to survive which is exactly what your fish and plants need so you are never going to eliminate it completely. All you can hope to do is to manage it by scraping the glass on a regular basis probably every couple of weeks. The best tiem to do the scraping is just before you use your siphonic gravel cleaner when you do a water change.
3 Ways To Control Algae
Control the light
There are a number of things that you can do to minimise the growth of algae due to too much light. The first thing is to avoid direct sunlight hitting the tank the second thing is to make sure that you do not to illuminate the aquarium for longer than 12 hours every day. These two things alone will help to minimise algae growth but, as I said, it cannot eliminate it.
Control nutrients
The nutrients in question are nitrates, phosphates and silicates. Nitrates are always present in a well-run aquarium and phosphates and silicates are contained in the fish food so there is no way that these nutrients can be eliminated completely. They can be minimised by not overfeeding the fish and by frequent water changes. You can also plant the tank heavily so that the plants take up the majority of the nutrients.
Add algae eating fish
There are a number of fish that eat algae but you cannot rely on them to completely remove it, you will always have to scrape the glass. Among these vegetarian fish there are:
- Common plec which likes green brown and brush algea
- Siamese algae eater which likes green brown and brush algea
- Chinese algea eaters/sucking Loach
- Bristlenose
- Peckoltia catfish
- Whiptail catfish
- Algea eating shrimp
By : John Thomson - John Thomson is an aquarium expert. For more information on aquarium maintenance visit http://www.freshwateraquariumsecretsonline.com
Showing posts with label fish. Show all posts
Showing posts with label fish. Show all posts
21 Dec 2010
5 Aug 2009
How To Setup A Freshwater Tropical Fish Tank
Step 1 : realize the responsibility. Tropical fish a reservoir is just like having a dog or cat when it is the amount of effort on your part. In order to have a reservoir fish successful you will have to work. Once a week, or at most once every two weeks, you will need to make some type of maintenance on the shell. Most of the time, you will be making changes of water. You will also to feed your tropical fish at least once per day. If you are up to this challenge, please proceed!
Step 2 : decide the aquarium size. It s a good idea to have in mind this kind of tropical fish that you want to keep before buying a aquarium. Some tropical fish grow to one or two inches, while the other types of tropical fish can grow 12 or 13 inches in length! Knowing what kind of tropical fish that you want will help you decide the size of the tank that they will need. If this is your first time with an aquarium, I would recommend goes with a 10 or 20 gallons aquarium for the moment.
Step 3 : Decide on the aquarium location. Place your aquarium in an area where the light and the temperature of the tank has won t be affected by external sources such as windows and heating vents. You want to place your aquarium in a position which will be able to hold its total weight. A good rule of thumb to determine the total weight of a full aquarium is 10 pounds per gallon of water. For example, a 55 gallons tank weigh approximately 550 pounds when filled with water!
Step 4 : buy your aquarium and the equipment. It is now time to decide what type of filtration you want to use. You will also need to buy a heating apparatus capable of heating of the size of reservoir that you have. Buy the gravel, plants, a power blades and other decorations. A good rule of thumb for the amount of gravel that you will need is 1 to 1.5 books of gravel per gallon of water.
Step 5 : put in place your aquarium and eligibility. Rinse your tank with water only! Do not use the soap or detergent. Soap residues left will be harmful to your tropical fish. If you use a sub gravel filter (not recommended) today would be the time to put in place as well.
Step 6 : wash Gravel, plants and decorations. Be sure to wash the gravel carefully before add to your tank. An easy way to do is to put some of the rocks in a pulp strainer and wash them in your bathtub. Then Place the clean gravel in a clean place 5-gallon bucket of transport to the aquarium. After adding gravel you can place your plants and decorations.
Stap 7 : add water to the aquarium. In order to avoid your gravel and plants, you can place a plate or saucer in the middle of your aquarium and direct the water run on the plate. Use the ambient temperature water during filling. To delete the chlorine and chloramine, use something like Tetra AquaSafe for aquariums. Don t completely fill the aquarium up to what you are sure of the provision of your decorations. Otherwise, when you place your arm in to go stuff around water will spill. Doh!
Step 8: Put in place equipment. Install a heating apparatus but don t connect up to the thermostat in heating has adjusted to the temperature of water. It usually takes approximately 15 minutes. Connect your filter and any other equipment you have, then top off water at just under the cover lip. Place your hood and of the light on the aquarium and then to verify your power cords to be sure that they are free of water. I also recommend to use a drip loop on all power cords to be extra cautious. Connect all equipment on a barrette and then turn on the aquarium.
Step 9 : Wait, wait, wait and then wait a little more. I know, you want to add some tropical fish. But, in order to make this right you have to wait until your aquarium has travelled before adding any fish. There are ways to accelerate this process. Departure nitrogen cycle page to learn more. If you must use the fish cycle, try to get a bolder species such as the zebra danio or cherry barb.
Step : 10 Add the tropical fish. To add one or two fish at a time. Adding a couple tropical fish at a time gives your filtration system the necessary time to take to the increase biological burden that the new fish introduce. When you bring the fish home let the bag float in the reservoir of approximately 15 minutes in order that the fish can become acclimated to temperature and the pH of the water. After 5 minutes of floating the bag you should add some of the water to the pocket in order that fish can become acclimated to pH level in the aquarium. This will help to reduce the amount of stress imposed on tropical fish. Stressed tropical fish often leads to death of tropical fish! Don t feed your tropical fish on the first day. They probably not eat more food on the first day of any way. Let them to familiarize themselves with their new house.
Step 11 : Get ready for a regular maintenance. Be willing to spend a certain time once a week or two to clean your tank. Regular water changes will reduce the rate of nitrates and keep your tropical fish happy and healthy.
By: Michael Magnum
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Step 2 : decide the aquarium size. It s a good idea to have in mind this kind of tropical fish that you want to keep before buying a aquarium. Some tropical fish grow to one or two inches, while the other types of tropical fish can grow 12 or 13 inches in length! Knowing what kind of tropical fish that you want will help you decide the size of the tank that they will need. If this is your first time with an aquarium, I would recommend goes with a 10 or 20 gallons aquarium for the moment.
Step 3 : Decide on the aquarium location. Place your aquarium in an area where the light and the temperature of the tank has won t be affected by external sources such as windows and heating vents. You want to place your aquarium in a position which will be able to hold its total weight. A good rule of thumb to determine the total weight of a full aquarium is 10 pounds per gallon of water. For example, a 55 gallons tank weigh approximately 550 pounds when filled with water!
Step 4 : buy your aquarium and the equipment. It is now time to decide what type of filtration you want to use. You will also need to buy a heating apparatus capable of heating of the size of reservoir that you have. Buy the gravel, plants, a power blades and other decorations. A good rule of thumb for the amount of gravel that you will need is 1 to 1.5 books of gravel per gallon of water.
Step 5 : put in place your aquarium and eligibility. Rinse your tank with water only! Do not use the soap or detergent. Soap residues left will be harmful to your tropical fish. If you use a sub gravel filter (not recommended) today would be the time to put in place as well.
Step 6 : wash Gravel, plants and decorations. Be sure to wash the gravel carefully before add to your tank. An easy way to do is to put some of the rocks in a pulp strainer and wash them in your bathtub. Then Place the clean gravel in a clean place 5-gallon bucket of transport to the aquarium. After adding gravel you can place your plants and decorations.
Stap 7 : add water to the aquarium. In order to avoid your gravel and plants, you can place a plate or saucer in the middle of your aquarium and direct the water run on the plate. Use the ambient temperature water during filling. To delete the chlorine and chloramine, use something like Tetra AquaSafe for aquariums. Don t completely fill the aquarium up to what you are sure of the provision of your decorations. Otherwise, when you place your arm in to go stuff around water will spill. Doh!
Step 8: Put in place equipment. Install a heating apparatus but don t connect up to the thermostat in heating has adjusted to the temperature of water. It usually takes approximately 15 minutes. Connect your filter and any other equipment you have, then top off water at just under the cover lip. Place your hood and of the light on the aquarium and then to verify your power cords to be sure that they are free of water. I also recommend to use a drip loop on all power cords to be extra cautious. Connect all equipment on a barrette and then turn on the aquarium.
Step 9 : Wait, wait, wait and then wait a little more. I know, you want to add some tropical fish. But, in order to make this right you have to wait until your aquarium has travelled before adding any fish. There are ways to accelerate this process. Departure nitrogen cycle page to learn more. If you must use the fish cycle, try to get a bolder species such as the zebra danio or cherry barb.
Step : 10 Add the tropical fish. To add one or two fish at a time. Adding a couple tropical fish at a time gives your filtration system the necessary time to take to the increase biological burden that the new fish introduce. When you bring the fish home let the bag float in the reservoir of approximately 15 minutes in order that the fish can become acclimated to temperature and the pH of the water. After 5 minutes of floating the bag you should add some of the water to the pocket in order that fish can become acclimated to pH level in the aquarium. This will help to reduce the amount of stress imposed on tropical fish. Stressed tropical fish often leads to death of tropical fish! Don t feed your tropical fish on the first day. They probably not eat more food on the first day of any way. Let them to familiarize themselves with their new house.
Step 11 : Get ready for a regular maintenance. Be willing to spend a certain time once a week or two to clean your tank. Regular water changes will reduce the rate of nitrates and keep your tropical fish happy and healthy.
By: Michael Magnum
Tags
Aquarium,
fish,
Fish and Aquaria,
pets
13 Jun 2008
Feeding Your Pet Stingray - The Essentials of Maintaining
Stingrays will eat a wide variety of foods. Maintaining a varied diet is extremely important in captive animals, as monocultural diets incur a risk of nutritional deficiencies. Stingrays are very active, and should be fed at least once a day, preferably twice or even three times daily. The daily diet can be varied in order to create some environmental enrichment as well as balanced nutrition for the rays.
First Foods
First foods for newly acquired rays should be blackworms or tubifex worms. These foods seem to be the most readily accepted, and are small enough to be inadvertently ingested either by mouth or through the spiracle, thereby giving the ray an opportunity to taste these possibly unfamiliar foods by chance. Foods that have been used for very small specimens, such as the teacup rays, are small insect larvae such as mosquito larvae, small shrimp known as ghost shrimp or glass shrimp, live adult brine shrimp, and blackworms. Chitinous foods such as shrimp provide less nutritional value than do soft-bodied foods, and so should not be used as sole food items.
The best way to be certain that your new stingray is feeding is to watch the spiracles as the ray passes over food on the bottom of the tank. If it is eating, you will see the spiracles opening and closing rapidly, or fluttering, as the food is ingested and water is passed from the mouth and out the spiracles. Once you observe a newly acquired ray readily feeding on black-worms or redworms introduce finely chopped night crawlers in small quantities. Once stingrays recognize these as food, most will readily eat them. Later, experiment with other types of food.
Types of Food
Live Foods
Feed live foods, including blackworms or tubifex worms, in quantities adequate to allow a small amount to be left in the tank so the rays can browse later. However, when cleaning the substrate, note whether a significant amount of living worms is present; blackworms and tubifex worms will colonize the substrate if not eaten and add to the nitrogenous waste production in the aquarium.
Nonlive, Nonaquatic Foods
Chopped earthworms, redworms, or night crawlers and any nonlive, nonaquatic foods should be fed in smaller quantities to prevent any overlooked food from decomposing in the tank. Keep in mind that stingrays have relatively small mouths-a 10-inch (25-cm) ray may have a mouth that is 1/2 to 3/4 inch (13 to 19 mm) wide, so chopped food items must be small enough to be eaten easily. If a ray ingests a piece of food and repeatedly spits it out and ingests it again, this usually indicates that the particle is too large. Some ray species, such as antenna rays, have extremely small mouths relative to their size.
Once acclimated, rays often develop techniques for eating larger pieces of food; for example, newly imported rays may have difficulty consuming even small chopped pieces of night crawlers. Eventually, however, they learn to eat an entire worm by sucking it into their oral cavity without chewing. Newly acquired rays also often ignore feeder goldfish but they quickly learn to chase down and consume feeders, even learning where they hide in the tank.
Commercially Prepared Foods
Stingrays may learn to eat other unfamiliar foods such as brine shrimp, pellet foods, or other commercially prepared foods. While there is probably no harm in offering these foods to rays, it is best to use fresh, live, or frozen foods as the dietary staple. Although stingrays often do not initially accept frozen or other nonliving foods, they may soon learn to eat these foods after they have been acclimated. A benefit of frozen foods is that they are less likely than live foods to introduce diseases or parasites.
Hand-feeding
Occasionally, a well-acclimated specimen will fail to gain weight, even though you are offering enough food. Several things may cause this problem; the most likely possibility is that it is not competing efficiently for food against other fish in the aquarium, or it may have a parasitic infestation. Stingrays occasionally do not seem to learn where foods can be found during feeding times, and are always in the wrong part of the tank during those times. In these cases, it is helpful to hand-feed such specimens. By this I do not mean feeding with your hands. Although some aquarists do this with stingrays, I do not recommend it because of the possibility of being accidentally stung. Remember that stingrays are wild animals, and no matter how accustomed your specimens become to your presence, it is impossible to always accurately predict their response to humans. Instead, you should always perform the hand-feeding of specimens with long forceps or a similar instrument. Stingrays generally avoid metal objects and appear to be frightened by metal; however, because they can sense metal, they will quickly learn that when there is a metal object in the aquarium, food is being offered. In this way, you can teach your stingray to feed directly from forceps, and selectively feed it more food.
Simply hold a night crawler (or a piece of night crawler) in the forceps, and hold the worm in the aquarium so that the ray can touch it with its fin. It should eat the worm immediately. After a few feedings in this manner, allow the forceps to touch the ray while it is eating the worm. It will quickly learn to associate the forceps with feeding and soon you will find that the ray will pounce on the forceps as soon as it touches it, eagerly looking for a treat!
How Much and How Often
The key to having well-fed stingrays in your aquarium is providing plenty of food. Unlike most fish that swim quietly between feedings, stingrays search constantly for food, looking under and around tank ornaments, moving driftwood, rocks, filters, and even other fish! This high activity level translates to a high metabolic rate, which means that while searching for food rays continue to burn energy. If they use up energy looking for food, but do not find any, they will lose weight. To compensate for this loss of energy, it is essential to provide adequate food. I cannot stress this enough. Hobbyists sometimes tell me that they feed their rays three times weekly, thinking that this is adequate. Stingrays should be fed at least twice, and usually three times, daily. In spite of these frequent feedings, rays will still constantly look for food between feedings!
When feeding significant quantities of live feeder goldfish, it is wise to add vitamin B1 to the feeder supply. Goldfish contain the enzyme thiaminase, which destroys thiamin, or vitamin B1, and this vitamin must be replenished. It should be your practice to add one 50-mg tablet to each 500 gallons (1893 L) of water every two weeks. You can add the tablets directly to the sump of the wet-dry filter; or as an alternative, the tablets can be added directly to the tank.
by Brendon Turner
First Foods
First foods for newly acquired rays should be blackworms or tubifex worms. These foods seem to be the most readily accepted, and are small enough to be inadvertently ingested either by mouth or through the spiracle, thereby giving the ray an opportunity to taste these possibly unfamiliar foods by chance. Foods that have been used for very small specimens, such as the teacup rays, are small insect larvae such as mosquito larvae, small shrimp known as ghost shrimp or glass shrimp, live adult brine shrimp, and blackworms. Chitinous foods such as shrimp provide less nutritional value than do soft-bodied foods, and so should not be used as sole food items.
The best way to be certain that your new stingray is feeding is to watch the spiracles as the ray passes over food on the bottom of the tank. If it is eating, you will see the spiracles opening and closing rapidly, or fluttering, as the food is ingested and water is passed from the mouth and out the spiracles. Once you observe a newly acquired ray readily feeding on black-worms or redworms introduce finely chopped night crawlers in small quantities. Once stingrays recognize these as food, most will readily eat them. Later, experiment with other types of food.
Types of Food
Live Foods
Feed live foods, including blackworms or tubifex worms, in quantities adequate to allow a small amount to be left in the tank so the rays can browse later. However, when cleaning the substrate, note whether a significant amount of living worms is present; blackworms and tubifex worms will colonize the substrate if not eaten and add to the nitrogenous waste production in the aquarium.
Nonlive, Nonaquatic Foods
Chopped earthworms, redworms, or night crawlers and any nonlive, nonaquatic foods should be fed in smaller quantities to prevent any overlooked food from decomposing in the tank. Keep in mind that stingrays have relatively small mouths-a 10-inch (25-cm) ray may have a mouth that is 1/2 to 3/4 inch (13 to 19 mm) wide, so chopped food items must be small enough to be eaten easily. If a ray ingests a piece of food and repeatedly spits it out and ingests it again, this usually indicates that the particle is too large. Some ray species, such as antenna rays, have extremely small mouths relative to their size.
Once acclimated, rays often develop techniques for eating larger pieces of food; for example, newly imported rays may have difficulty consuming even small chopped pieces of night crawlers. Eventually, however, they learn to eat an entire worm by sucking it into their oral cavity without chewing. Newly acquired rays also often ignore feeder goldfish but they quickly learn to chase down and consume feeders, even learning where they hide in the tank.
Commercially Prepared Foods
Stingrays may learn to eat other unfamiliar foods such as brine shrimp, pellet foods, or other commercially prepared foods. While there is probably no harm in offering these foods to rays, it is best to use fresh, live, or frozen foods as the dietary staple. Although stingrays often do not initially accept frozen or other nonliving foods, they may soon learn to eat these foods after they have been acclimated. A benefit of frozen foods is that they are less likely than live foods to introduce diseases or parasites.
Hand-feeding
Occasionally, a well-acclimated specimen will fail to gain weight, even though you are offering enough food. Several things may cause this problem; the most likely possibility is that it is not competing efficiently for food against other fish in the aquarium, or it may have a parasitic infestation. Stingrays occasionally do not seem to learn where foods can be found during feeding times, and are always in the wrong part of the tank during those times. In these cases, it is helpful to hand-feed such specimens. By this I do not mean feeding with your hands. Although some aquarists do this with stingrays, I do not recommend it because of the possibility of being accidentally stung. Remember that stingrays are wild animals, and no matter how accustomed your specimens become to your presence, it is impossible to always accurately predict their response to humans. Instead, you should always perform the hand-feeding of specimens with long forceps or a similar instrument. Stingrays generally avoid metal objects and appear to be frightened by metal; however, because they can sense metal, they will quickly learn that when there is a metal object in the aquarium, food is being offered. In this way, you can teach your stingray to feed directly from forceps, and selectively feed it more food.
Simply hold a night crawler (or a piece of night crawler) in the forceps, and hold the worm in the aquarium so that the ray can touch it with its fin. It should eat the worm immediately. After a few feedings in this manner, allow the forceps to touch the ray while it is eating the worm. It will quickly learn to associate the forceps with feeding and soon you will find that the ray will pounce on the forceps as soon as it touches it, eagerly looking for a treat!
How Much and How Often
The key to having well-fed stingrays in your aquarium is providing plenty of food. Unlike most fish that swim quietly between feedings, stingrays search constantly for food, looking under and around tank ornaments, moving driftwood, rocks, filters, and even other fish! This high activity level translates to a high metabolic rate, which means that while searching for food rays continue to burn energy. If they use up energy looking for food, but do not find any, they will lose weight. To compensate for this loss of energy, it is essential to provide adequate food. I cannot stress this enough. Hobbyists sometimes tell me that they feed their rays three times weekly, thinking that this is adequate. Stingrays should be fed at least twice, and usually three times, daily. In spite of these frequent feedings, rays will still constantly look for food between feedings!
When feeding significant quantities of live feeder goldfish, it is wise to add vitamin B1 to the feeder supply. Goldfish contain the enzyme thiaminase, which destroys thiamin, or vitamin B1, and this vitamin must be replenished. It should be your practice to add one 50-mg tablet to each 500 gallons (1893 L) of water every two weeks. You can add the tablets directly to the sump of the wet-dry filter; or as an alternative, the tablets can be added directly to the tank.
by Brendon Turner
9 Jun 2008
How To Keep Your Aquarium Clean
No one likes living in a dirty, stuffy house. Thank goodness a little dirt is not hazardous to our health. The same cannot be said for our aquatic friends. Most fish and invertebrates are unable to adapt to changes in water chemistry that result from increased bacteria, waste, and chemicals. Proper filtration can preserve the overall health of the aquarium and maintain its beauty.
Three types of filtration exist on the market – biological, mechanical, and chemical. Varying experts will assert that you must utilize all three in your tank. For a marine aquarium with a reef environment, that may be good advice. There is no definitive answer on what combination is suitable for your aquatic environment. Educating yourself on the functions of all three will enable you to pick the filter(s) that will safeguard your fish and invertebrates’ natural habitat.
Biological Filtration
Biological filters are a must for every aquarium. They stimulate the growth of nitrifying bacteria that breaks down harmful ammonia to less toxic chemicals such as nitrate. It sounds simple enough, but how this is accomplished is quite impressive. A widespread method of producing these beneficial bacteria is adding fish to the aquarium. The bacteria, which ride on the fish, drop off and spread throughout the tank and grow. This also leads to increased amounts of dangerous ammonia, so it is important to add fish gradually. It can take several months to establish this cyclical process.
Aquarist believed that they had an easier, quicker solution in under gravel filters and crushed coral. Along with the water, detritus and junk was pulled through the crushed coral, which clogged the filter bed. Some fish enthusiasts have gladly replaced these under gravel filters with biofilters such as canister filters, trickle filters, bio wheels, fluidized bed filters, or sponge filters. These devices incorporate other methods of filtration making them even more useful. Other aquarists opt for the natural route to biological filtration using a mixture of live sand and crushed coral as the tank’s substrate.
Mechanical Filtration
Mechanical filters use a more direct approach to remove particulate matter before it decomposes and adds to the ammonia load. These filters are the most versatile since they can be used in most filtration devices. The key to their efficiency is regular cleaning. Otherwise, waste can accumulate and your effort is in vain. Aquarium owners must always be mindful of the flow rate of their device, which is automatically set to manufacturer’s standards. A reduced flow can lead to an unclean filter (or vice versa) and adversely affects the health of the entire aquarium.
There are a variety of mechanical filters on the market, each with its own advantages. The power filters’ low price, ease of use, and maintenance makes it the most popular of all mechanical filtration devices. These quiet devices can also be used for chemical and biological filtration.
Canister filters are equally as versatile. These large-capacity filters, which run on their own pumps, can be used for mechanical, chemical, and biological filtration. Many aquarists prefer the hang-on-tank canister filters to promote water quality, but there are a large variety of canisters styles available.
Wet/Dry filters, also known as trickle filters or bio-towers, are more suitable for fish-only tanks than reef systems. This is due to the biomaterial inside the filter’s wet/dry chamber that becomes dirty and results in a buildup of harmful nitrates.
Internal filters are a great option for smaller tanks. Their compact and simple design makes them easy to operate. As the name suggests, the filter runs within the aquarium and is powered by a small water pump, or air pump.
Protein skimming/foam fractionation is not mandatory, but it is a trusted method of maintaining water quality. Dissolved proteins linger to air bubbles and form protein foam. Protein skimming pumps the air bubbles through a small columnar removing the dissolved proteins from the tank.
Chemical Filtration
Particles are not the only thing floating in your aquarium’s water. Copper, ammonia, and phosphates also threaten the stability of your tank’s environment. Chemical filtration utilizes chemically enhanced products to treat the water. Activated carbon is the leading medium used. Others such as calcium hydroxide, zeolite, and even peat moss work as well.
Protein skimming, Power, Canister, and Internal filters are some of the most common filtration devices used for chemical treatment. Of course these double for mechanical filtration devices as well. Trickle filters are a popular choice amongst saltwater aquarium owners. The water is first drawn from the tank. Then, it is siphoned through the mechanical, biological, chemical, and auxiliary filters. Finally, it placed back into the aquarium.
To target specific chemicals, look to Reactors. Water is drawn through a canister-type chamber where it meets the chemical media. For even more effective filtration, they can be run pressurized.
The methods of keeping your aquarium’s waters clean are numerous. Using biological filters as a base, there is a wealth of combinations that you can build upon to create a healthy environment for your pets.
By: Reef Saltwateraquarium
Three types of filtration exist on the market – biological, mechanical, and chemical. Varying experts will assert that you must utilize all three in your tank. For a marine aquarium with a reef environment, that may be good advice. There is no definitive answer on what combination is suitable for your aquatic environment. Educating yourself on the functions of all three will enable you to pick the filter(s) that will safeguard your fish and invertebrates’ natural habitat.
Biological Filtration
Biological filters are a must for every aquarium. They stimulate the growth of nitrifying bacteria that breaks down harmful ammonia to less toxic chemicals such as nitrate. It sounds simple enough, but how this is accomplished is quite impressive. A widespread method of producing these beneficial bacteria is adding fish to the aquarium. The bacteria, which ride on the fish, drop off and spread throughout the tank and grow. This also leads to increased amounts of dangerous ammonia, so it is important to add fish gradually. It can take several months to establish this cyclical process.
Aquarist believed that they had an easier, quicker solution in under gravel filters and crushed coral. Along with the water, detritus and junk was pulled through the crushed coral, which clogged the filter bed. Some fish enthusiasts have gladly replaced these under gravel filters with biofilters such as canister filters, trickle filters, bio wheels, fluidized bed filters, or sponge filters. These devices incorporate other methods of filtration making them even more useful. Other aquarists opt for the natural route to biological filtration using a mixture of live sand and crushed coral as the tank’s substrate.
Mechanical Filtration
Mechanical filters use a more direct approach to remove particulate matter before it decomposes and adds to the ammonia load. These filters are the most versatile since they can be used in most filtration devices. The key to their efficiency is regular cleaning. Otherwise, waste can accumulate and your effort is in vain. Aquarium owners must always be mindful of the flow rate of their device, which is automatically set to manufacturer’s standards. A reduced flow can lead to an unclean filter (or vice versa) and adversely affects the health of the entire aquarium.
There are a variety of mechanical filters on the market, each with its own advantages. The power filters’ low price, ease of use, and maintenance makes it the most popular of all mechanical filtration devices. These quiet devices can also be used for chemical and biological filtration.
Canister filters are equally as versatile. These large-capacity filters, which run on their own pumps, can be used for mechanical, chemical, and biological filtration. Many aquarists prefer the hang-on-tank canister filters to promote water quality, but there are a large variety of canisters styles available.
Wet/Dry filters, also known as trickle filters or bio-towers, are more suitable for fish-only tanks than reef systems. This is due to the biomaterial inside the filter’s wet/dry chamber that becomes dirty and results in a buildup of harmful nitrates.
Internal filters are a great option for smaller tanks. Their compact and simple design makes them easy to operate. As the name suggests, the filter runs within the aquarium and is powered by a small water pump, or air pump.
Protein skimming/foam fractionation is not mandatory, but it is a trusted method of maintaining water quality. Dissolved proteins linger to air bubbles and form protein foam. Protein skimming pumps the air bubbles through a small columnar removing the dissolved proteins from the tank.
Chemical Filtration
Particles are not the only thing floating in your aquarium’s water. Copper, ammonia, and phosphates also threaten the stability of your tank’s environment. Chemical filtration utilizes chemically enhanced products to treat the water. Activated carbon is the leading medium used. Others such as calcium hydroxide, zeolite, and even peat moss work as well.
Protein skimming, Power, Canister, and Internal filters are some of the most common filtration devices used for chemical treatment. Of course these double for mechanical filtration devices as well. Trickle filters are a popular choice amongst saltwater aquarium owners. The water is first drawn from the tank. Then, it is siphoned through the mechanical, biological, chemical, and auxiliary filters. Finally, it placed back into the aquarium.
To target specific chemicals, look to Reactors. Water is drawn through a canister-type chamber where it meets the chemical media. For even more effective filtration, they can be run pressurized.
The methods of keeping your aquarium’s waters clean are numerous. Using biological filters as a base, there is a wealth of combinations that you can build upon to create a healthy environment for your pets.
By: Reef Saltwateraquarium
Furnishing Your Aquarium In 4 Easy Steps
Furnishing your aquarium is another important process in aquarium set up after getting the tank. You will need to put in components that will make it looks more beautify and attractive.
How you do this will now depend largely on the type of the habitants that you intend to keep. Regardless below I have outlined in 4 simple steps what needs to be done to create a beautiful aquarium that you will be proud of:
Step 1. Add aquarium gravel
Gravel is essential to your aquarium most especially if you are using natural plants. It will help in holding plant roots and provide the foundation for the biological and under gravel filtration. Since gravel comes in different sizes and colours, the advised size is 4 to 6 millimeters because it provides flow for an undergravel filter and the most popular is quartzite or granite.
Step 2. Add Rocks:
Adding rock is very important to your aquarium as it provide isolated home for territorial fish. Add rocks can upset your aquarium ecosystem thus it's advisable that you take measures to prevent this.
Also since you may not know how save rock you want to add is, it's very important that you clean them up to remove contaminants.
Step 3. Add Bogwood
This is another essential factor that adds to the beauty of aquarium and it can last long time. Not only that, aquarium habitats need shelter and bogwood provides this. When adding bogwood makes sure that it is well cleaned and it's not infected. To be sure that its infection free takes it through process of poly-vanish.
Step 4. Add Plants
Plants also add to the beauty of your aquarium. There are two types of plants - plastic plants and live (natural) plants.
It's very easy to use plastic plants because they need little or no maintenance. You just clean them up with clean water and add. On the other hand live plants helps in biological process of aquarium and helping to keep your tank clean and healthy.
By: John Morris
How you do this will now depend largely on the type of the habitants that you intend to keep. Regardless below I have outlined in 4 simple steps what needs to be done to create a beautiful aquarium that you will be proud of:
Step 1. Add aquarium gravel
Gravel is essential to your aquarium most especially if you are using natural plants. It will help in holding plant roots and provide the foundation for the biological and under gravel filtration. Since gravel comes in different sizes and colours, the advised size is 4 to 6 millimeters because it provides flow for an undergravel filter and the most popular is quartzite or granite.
Step 2. Add Rocks:
Adding rock is very important to your aquarium as it provide isolated home for territorial fish. Add rocks can upset your aquarium ecosystem thus it's advisable that you take measures to prevent this.
Also since you may not know how save rock you want to add is, it's very important that you clean them up to remove contaminants.
Step 3. Add Bogwood
This is another essential factor that adds to the beauty of aquarium and it can last long time. Not only that, aquarium habitats need shelter and bogwood provides this. When adding bogwood makes sure that it is well cleaned and it's not infected. To be sure that its infection free takes it through process of poly-vanish.
Step 4. Add Plants
Plants also add to the beauty of your aquarium. There are two types of plants - plastic plants and live (natural) plants.
It's very easy to use plastic plants because they need little or no maintenance. You just clean them up with clean water and add. On the other hand live plants helps in biological process of aquarium and helping to keep your tank clean and healthy.
By: John Morris
5 Nov 2007
Goldfish 101
Goldfish are hardy freshwater fish. While most people know about them, they do not necessarily know all about them. This article attempts to tell you a lot more. They originated from the Gibal Carp. Over the past 2000 years, beginning in China, Goldfish were the result of breeding and early genetic like experimentation. Unlike many other species, various genetic traits can be changed over 3-4 generations with Goldfish.
Wild "Goldfish" live in an environment of ponds, lakes, and other water holes and can be found in Moving and still water ranging from 50 to 90 degrees Fahrenheit / 10 to 32 degrees Celsius. The largest types of goldfish can grow to be upwards of 12 inches/ 30 cm and with weights around 5 pounds / 2.5 Kg.
In the wild, their colors tend to be darker and paler which seems to be a direct result of the amount of light in their environment. Their colors actually include gold, bronze, and pink. They have a couple sub-hues of the sort too, metallic and calico.
It is time to shatter a myth, a dream about keeping goldfish. Those cute little bowls that are often sold containing goldfish are not the right environment for Goldfish. They need more room, as they can grow large and need high oxygen levels in the water. Something that is hard to maintain in a bowl. Small aquarium tanks are never wise for aquarists, as they can have more drastic (and fast) changes in the water quality. This means that the water very fast can turn toxic and kill your goldfish. You sometime hear people being proud that my new goldfish has lived for 3 or 6 month or something like that. A six month old goldfish is really nothing to be proud of as these fish can become 30 and even 40 years old with the proper care.
For a Goldfish aquarium tank, it is advisable to have a tank with a lot of surface area as that allows more water contact with the air which means more oxygen in the water. For every inch of Goldfish, you should have 30 square inches of surface area. Do not forget that they will grow, and some variety can become as large a foot / 30 cm.
Goldfish should be kept in freshwater and can in some areas be taken directly from the tap. Check with a local fish store to se if the water in your area is good enough to house fish in and use a good water preparation chemical. Make sure that new water that you add to the aquarium keeps the same temperature as the old water in the aquarium. You should always let your aquarium stand for about a week after first adding water to it before adding any fish. This process is called cycling and makes the water more suitable to support life.
Gravel on the bottom is wise, as it will help the Goldfish to feel more at home. About 1/8 inch is good. It is a good idea to avoid dyed gravel, as it might have contaminants that your Goldfish will not appreciate in terms of health.
Filtration are not, with good water changes, as necessary for Goldfish as they are with many other fish, though still a good idea and strongly recommended, as it will make your task a bit simpler and help you keep the water conditions good. The filtration will also start a current which increase the oxygen levels in the aquarium tank which is beneficial Oxygenating is a good thing as well. It will help release some harmful chemicals in the water, and helps oxygenate the water as well. A simple air stone, and pump for your Goldfish will help them live happier and healthier, and the cost are worth every penny of it.
Goldfish, like most other fish, do enjoy some environment to play in. Places to hide and find shade in. One other aspect, it is wise to have at least 2 goldfish, as they do like company. Loners in the fish world probably are not that much different from those in the human one. Do not leave your precious pet alone without someone to play with. Make sure all things in the tank are meant to be in a fish tank, and that they are clean, so they don't add harmful chemicals. Don't use any detergents to clean the fish tank and/or any part of decoration and equipment.
Lighting will help the fish to maintain the best color. Florescent Normal Output bulbs do well for Goldfish, although high output bulbs can make your goldfish colors look and be even brighter.
You should take care bringing the Goldfish home. Darkness, room temperature, and gentleness are a great idea, as they will help lessen the stress on the goldfish during the move. Another aspect is that it is wise to dim the lights before adding them to the tank to further reduce stress. Before releasing them into the tank you should let the bag float on top of the aquarium for a while. (At least 15 minutes) you should thereafter open the bag and but about a cup of water in it and than wait another 15 minutes. You should repeat this process 4 times before you release you fish in their new home. This will give the goldfish the possibility to slowly adept to the new water conditions.
Once things are up and running, you should change some of the water in the tank weekly. This helps remove stale water and clean out some debris. You should siphon about 15% of the water out and from the bottom at the gravel where the debris fall. Then replace the removed water with the fresh water, make sure that the new water has the same temperature as the water in the aquarium. If the water changes causes big changes in the water values it might stress the Goldfish.
Goldfish have special nutritional needs that are often available as "Goldfish Food." For example, Goldfish need more carbohydrates in their diet than many other fish species. It is wise to only add enough food for them to eat fully in 5 or 10 minutes. Any more will likely be waste resting at the bottom and worsen the water quality. It is better to feed them 2-3 times a day then it is once a day.
About the author: Click on the link to learn more about goldfish or some other fish species.
1 Nov 2007
Aquarium Heaters - Preset (Thermostatic) vs Non-Preset (Automatic)
There are two basic types of aquarium heater (and a sub type)
I have been in the Aquarium maintenance and research business for 28 + years now and in the aquatics hobby about 40 years. Aquatic Information and Resources
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Another term for the automatic heater is a Non-Preset Heaters, while the Thermostatic heater is also referred to as a Preset Heater.
PRESET HEATERS:
The Thermostatic or Preset heater has a built in thermostat (or a remote sensor as is common in many titanium aquarium heaters). These heaters may use a digital thermostat, usually monitoring the impedance of a thermistor (a resistor used to measure temperature changes in the aquarium, relying on the change in its resistance with changing temperatures), or the potential across a thermocouple (a temperature sensor used to measure electric potential difference).
There are many models of aquarium heaters available today that come preset or with a temperature gauge on the side of the heater or on the control knob to help the aquarist set the temperature. The aquarist should allow the heater to adjust to water temperature for 30 minutes before plugging in this type of heater to allow the thermostat to adjust. Use these settings on the dial as a guide to make fine adjustments, as they should not be depended upon for total accuracy... Though some manufacturers make other claims, these gauges are at best accurate within two or three degrees Fahrenheit (one to one and a half degrees Celsius), and generally get less accurate over the life of the heater. An aquarist should always check their heater for accuracy and not assume that because it is set at 78 F, it will stay at 78 F.
A subtype of the Preset heaters is the Remote Sensor Heaters such as the Via Aqua Titanium heater. The advantage to these heaters is twofold; one is that they tend to be even more accurate by having the sensor far from the heating element, and two; the Titanium (and also Stainless Steel) heaters are much more durable and difficult to break especially with large fish such as Oscars.
AUTOMATIC OR NON-PRESET HEATERS (HOB Heaters)
The Non-Preset or Automatic heater has a very remedial thermostat; or better they have metal contacts that are tightened by turning the dial (metal contacts installed on bi-metal lead, which are brought together with an adjusting screw). When the heater is "turned up" or tightened, it turns on for longer periods of time. These heaters need adjustments between summer and winter. Examples of this heater are the Radiant by Hagen, or even the old Metaframe heaters. Sometimes these heater are all some aquarists can fit or afford on their tank (although Thermostatic heaters have come down in price a lot), but I have seen many an aquarist cook their fish with these, as subtle changes in the dial often over correct and a sudden ambient warm spell is often not corrected for.
With these heaters it is imperative that the water level is kept up to the proper level as marked on the heater or they may crack, it is also important to check these for seasonal variations (Summer/Winter), as these heater adjust poorly for these. These heaters should not be used in a room or garage with wide temperature swings as they will not generally adjust properly. As with other heaters it is a good idea to place the heater in the tank and wait for 30 minutes before plugging in (although this is less important with these automatic heaters). Adjustments should be made very gradually and it is easier to adjust these heaters if you start out at our near the desired temperature, otherwise you may be in for a rollercoaster of adjustments.
For further information including pictures about aquarium heaters, please see this article: 'Aquarium Answers- 'Aquarium Heaters, preset vs, non-preset'
About the Author
By Carl StrohmeyerI have been in the Aquarium maintenance and research business for 28 + years now and in the aquatics hobby about 40 years. Aquatic Information and Resources
Use of this article MUST include Hyperlinked references including the above link, otherwise copyright laws pertain.
Identification and Treatment of Dropsy in Freshwater Aquarium Fish
Question about Dropsy:
I have been in the Aquarium maintenance and research business for 28 + years now and in the aquatics hobby about 40 years. Aquatic Information and Resources
Use of this article MUST include Hyperlinked references including the above link, otherwise copyright laws pertain.
I posted about a female Siamese fighting fish (Betta) that appeared to have dropsy a few weeks ago. I treated her twice with Maracyn. After the swelling didn't start to go down, but she is still as swollen as she was then, but has not got to the point were her scales have started to protrude? Do you know what else that it could be. She seems buoyant and the swollen cavity appears to be filled by either air, of a clear liquid, when she swims in front of the lights?
Answer:
Have you tried Kanacyn? Maracyn (Erythromycin) is usually not effective for most causes of Dropsy. And dropsy is generally a symptom of something else, sometimes digestive, often kidney related. Because of this, Dropsy can often be very difficult to treat, especially if caught in an advanced case in the fish. What the aquarist often observes is a "pinecone" swelling generally caused by fluid building inside the body cavity, for this reason, reducing this swelling is an important step in effecting a cure. This said, besides treatment for a possible underlying infection, you want to take steps to remove the swelling.
Here are the steps I would take:
*Change water! (25% should be fine)
*Perform a medicated bath with Methylene Blue. To prepare this bath I use 1 teaspoon 2.303% solution per 5 gallons (double dose) in a bath of aquarium water from the tank the fish you wish to treat came from, I usually use about a � gallon of water, however you may use less. Measurement of the Methylene Blue does not need to be precise as this bath should be used for about 30 minutes (although do NOT overdose). Make sure you keep the water in a warm area, as in a cold room the water temperature can drop rapidly which would stress the fish. Do not pour this water back into your display aquarium when finished. This can be performed twice per day.
*Add one tablespoon of regular salt (sodium chloride) per 5 gallons of tank water and � to � teaspoon of Epsom salts per 5 gallons of tank water. Add a Wonder Shell (trace element block) or similar product to add needed calcium. What these minerals will do is add electrolytes and change (and improve) the osmotic balance of the fish vs. the surrounding water to hopefully pull fluids thru the body thus reducing swelling.
*Treat tank water with Kanamycin (Kanaplex), or possibly with Neomycin or Nalidixic Acid.
Here is more info about aquarium medications: Aquarium Medications; treatments, how they work, and which ones to use and not to use
Prevention:
The aeromonas bacteria (that is often present in healthy aquariums) can cause infections that will manifest this way in poor water conditions. So maintaining a healthy aquarium with regular water changes, good filtration (if possible, this is why I see more cases of Dropsy in Betta kept in a bowl), good feeding practices (not over feeding and using quality foods), and maintaining proper water parameters (ammonia and nitrites 0, kH 80 ppm, nitrates under 40 ppm). All this goes a long way in prevention of Dropsy and other diseases.
A proper diet makes a large difference here. Do not feed your fish meat based proteins, I recommend aquatic based proteins such as white fish meal, shrimp or even the proteins found in spirulina algae.
As a basic diet I recommend Sanyu or Hikari Betta Gold (there are many other quality foods as well, although I do not recommend flake foods for bettas as their staple diet) Poor quality proteins (or better; unusable amino acids for fish) can lead to digestive problems or Renal failure, which can lead to the symptoms of Dropsy. All proteins are made up of amino acids, some are usable (by fish), and some are not. Those that are not are disposed of by kidneys in the fish. This can lead to renal failure or infection. For more information about proper nutrition, see this article: "Quality Fish Food; What ingredients are needed for proper fish nutrition, growth and health". Also always soak all dry foods in water for 5 minutes prior to feeding as this will remove air that can lead to infections of the digestive tract. I would recommend this as a basic diet for your Betta: Sanyu Betta Gold
For further & expanded information and pictures, please see this article: "Aquarium Answers; DROPSY in fish; prevention, causes, and possible treatment of this symptom. "
About the Author
By Carl StrohmeyerI have been in the Aquarium maintenance and research business for 28 + years now and in the aquatics hobby about 40 years. Aquatic Information and Resources
Use of this article MUST include Hyperlinked references including the above link, otherwise copyright laws pertain.
Choosing The Right Freshwater Tropical Fish
You have probably been to your local pet shop or aquarist dealer and seen a large variety of tropical fish to choose from. How do you go about choosing the right combination of fish for you?
You can't just choose any fish you like and expect them to all get along well together, it doesn't work like that - you need a plan.
Firstly, do you want a community aquarium or a species tank? A community aquarium will hold a variety of different fish that will all live in harmony with each other. A species tank, as the name suggests, will only hold one variety of fish.
Most people start with a community aquarium, and it is a very good place to start.
Before you work out exactly which fish you want, you need to work out have many inches (or centimetres) of fish you can accommodate in your new aquarium. A long, shallow tank will hold more fish than a short deep tank, because it is the amount of oxygen in the water that is more important than the actual quantity of water.
As a guide you can expect to be able to fit one inch of fish for each gallon of water, so a good place to start is to calculate the number of inches of fishes you can accommodate. This is measured from the mouth of the fish to the start of the tail, and don't forget to find out how big the fish will grow to, don't just look at the size of them in the shop as they will almost certainly grow.
How do you go about choosing the right fish for you? Firstly look around and see if there are any fish which you definitely want, and start your plan there. You need to know what size the fish you want will grow to, and how many you should keep together. Some fish are fine singly or in pairs, others only really thrive when they have friends to shoal with.
When you have chosen the fish you want to base your aquarium on, look to see how many you need to get, and how many inches they will use up. Next, will they live in harmony with all other fishes, or are there some they don't get along with? Also, take note of where they live in the aquarium. Some fish are bottom dwellers, some live mainly at the top, and others in the middle of the aquarium.
The best way to have a balanced aquarium is to have some fish that live in each level of the aquarium, as well as some fish that will keep the bottom clean, like corydoras. I also always like to have fish that will keep the sides clean, like a pleco (suckermouth catfish).
About the Author
Jackie Robinson is a keen hobbyist and has kept tropical fish for many years. See more information about breeds of tropical fish, and other useful information about tropical fish at her website http://www.JustTropicalFish.comHow Many Fish Will My Aquarium Hold?
Have you got yourself a new aquarium? If so, you need to have a plan on how you are going to fill it with those beautiful fish.
Before you work out exactly which fish you want, you need to work out have many inches (or centimetres) of fish you can accommodate in your new aquarium.
The fish will obviously have more room to swim and set up their territories in a larger aquarium, but more important than the size of the aquarium is the shape and proportions of the tank. A long, shallow tank will hold more fish than a short deep tank, even if they have exactly the same amount of water in each.
The reason for this is that the oxygen content of the water depends on how easily it can be supplied. The only place this can happen is where the air meets the water, which is at the surface of the tank, so the larger the surface, the more oxygen available. Similarly, the carbon dioxide that the fish exhale has to be expelled from the water, and this also happens at the surface.
So, to work out the capacity of an aquarium, you need to multiply the length of the aquarium by the depth to get the water surface. For instance, if your aquarium is 24in (60cm) long by 12in (30cm) deep, the answer is 288in2 (1800cm2).
The next thing you need to know is how many inches (or centimetres) of fish you can accommodate, and this will depend on the type of fish.
Freshwater Tropical Fish - 12in2 per inch body length (75cm2 per cm body length)
Freshwater Cold Water Fish - 30in2 per inch body length (187.5cm2 per cm of body length)
Marine Tropical Fish - 48in2 per inch body length (300cm2 per cm body length)
So, in our example tank above you could fit:
24 inches (60cm) of Freshwater Tropical Fish 10 inches (25cm) of Freshwater Cold Water Fish 6 inches (15cm) of Marine Tropical Fish
To calculate the number of inches (or centimetres) of your fish, measure from the mouth to the start of the tail, and don't forget that the fish you see in the shops are normally juveniles and are not fully grown, you need to allow for the size they will become!
Get this right, and you're well on the way to having a successful aquarium.
About the Author
Jackie Robinson is a keen hobbyist and has kept tropical fish for many years. See more information about choosing your aquarium, and other useful information about tropical fish at her website http://www.JustTropicalFish.comGive Your Betta Fish A Better Life!
Have you ever been to your local pet shop and seen the Bettas (also known as Siamese Fighters), in a tiny little tank? When I questioned my local pet store about the size of container they were kept in, they proceeded to tell me that it is what Bettas prefer! They had obviously been asked this many times, because they handed me a photocopied piece of paper explaining how to care for a Betta, and how they like to live in tiny spaces.
Now I don't know about you, but I personally think it is extremely cruel, and I think the fish think so as well, as they look pretty miserable. A good indication of it is that they aren't showing off their beautiful fins, instead they are usually skulking near the bottom, fins down.
Now the pet shop's theory is that Bettas live in small puddles of water in the rice fields of Asia, but what they don't tell you is that they move from puddle to puddle, and then on to bigger expanses of water. They are not stuck in one small puddle all their life, never meeting up with another fish! The species would be extinct by now if that was the case.
If you own a Betta in a small tank, please consider getting it a bigger home. You cannot keep two male Bettas together, because, as the name Siamese Fighter suggests, they will fight! You could easily keep your Betta in an aquarium with other tropical fish. Whatever you do, don't keep them with fish that like to nip fins, like Barbs, and especially not with Guppies. Male Bettas view Guppies as competition and will most probably fight and kill them.
The other alternative is to get one or two female Bettas. It is much better to have a couple of females, rather than just one, as it will give each female a break from amorous advances. When the male is ready to breed he will make a bubble nest near the surface of the water. Once the female has laid the eggs, which can be anywhere from 400 to 500 eggs, he will guard them.
Make sure that the aquarium in which they live has some vegetation they can hide in, as well as easy access to the surface of the aquarium, as they like to breathe air at the surface from time to time.
So, if you do own a male Betta in a tiny tank, please think about this, give him a better home, and watch how much happier he will be.
About the Author
Jackie Robinson is a keen hobbyist and has kept tropical fish for many years. See more information about Betta Fish, or other tropical fish at her website http://www.JustTropicalFish.com27 Oct 2007
Ten Most Popular Goldfish
You can�t imagine the kind of varieties of Goldfish there are! People have been breeding Goldfish for over 2000 years now. China is believed to have over 100 varieties and to think that it all began with the Carassius auratus � the gibel carp! Not all goldfish have been bred in China though. Other countries have specially bred their own goldfish around the world. Comets and Veiltails are very American while the Jikin, Tosakin and the Shubunkin are Japanese. The United Kingdom bred its own Shubunkins and there are two types
� Bristol and London Shubunkin.
And so the endless list of Goldfish varieties goes on, so much so that it�s hard to say which is the most unique of them all. Today, we can zero in on at least 20 recognized breeds all sorted out according to their color, body shape, finnage and any other very unique outgrowths. There are the orange or red goldfish which we immediately think of as being typical colors but actually the most genuine goldfish colors are greenish brown, blue, black, bronze, olive green, dark brown, reddish brown, light brown, calico, red and white and even white. All of these have been bred by experts. But some goldfish will be more popular than the others. Lets find out what makes them a hit with the fish keepers in a top ten list.
To view the list of the top ten most popular Goldfish Goldfish-Secrets.com
About the author: Having 30 years experience in everything Goldfish, Dane Stanton has spent the past 18 months researching the most pressing questions on Goldfish. This information has been recorded in his book titled - "Goldfish Secrets Revealed" - which you can pick up by going to his website - http://www.goldfish-secret s.com
24 Oct 2007
Discus fish health - Things you should know
Just one look at the discus fish forums will tell you how discus fish health is a highly debated topic. Discus fish health is also featured in some special magazines. This is mainly due to the failure rates of many owners, who don't know how to preserve their discus fish health. The coordinates for perfect discus fish health are very simple and easy to follow: keep them clean, well-fed and loved and everything should go smoothly. The common mistake many owners make is to combine discus with all sorts of other incompatible species. This may result in an unfortunate co-inhabitance and have severe effects on discus fish health as well as on that of the rest of your aquatic pets.
Discus fish health is always dependant on the other inhabitants. If you place them with fish smaller than themselves, on condition that these are not cat fish with sucker mouths then you should be fine. The cat fish is dangerous for the discus fish health as they attach to their scales producing severe tissue injuries. Adding some medicine can go a long way in preserving discus fish health, but this is not always the case its better to prevent than to cure when it comes to maintaining health of discus fish.
Discus fish health also depends on nutrition; feed your discus enough protein and they will have all the energy they need. Moreover, amino acids are also highly important, and they come from the meat you feed your discus. Beware of the fact that over-feeding may also affect discus fish health since it may lead to water deterioration and the lowering of the standards in the living conditions. Your discus fish health should be well protected if you have a very powerful biological filter in the aquarium and you perform regular water changes.
Reverse osmosis is the best known method for preserving discus fish health. Reverse osmosis is done with the help of the semi-permeable membrane inside the filter that allows only water molecules to pass through it. It removes minerals, trace and any other substance, producing pure water that is so necessary for your discus fish health. A few minerals should be however added in the water to actually recreate the discus fish health-friendly environment. As a owner you are responsible for everything that goes on in your small eco system. Therefore, always keep a watchful eye on the aquarium. For more professional information on preserving discus health click here
About the Author
Steve is a free lance writer who beleives in living the life to the fullest. His hobbies include writing, Pet-grooming, Swimming and hiking.Where to find discus fish for sale?
We find more and more People offering discus fish for sale. One needs to dig deeper in order to find the best deals. There are professional breeders that that use selection methods and great technologies in order to offer high quality discus fish for sale. There are ceratin things we need to consider when the discus fish for sale are already coupled. These are the most crucial factors, as it is considered pretty difficult to mate discus fish. One might think that its a false myth, but it is a fact that couple discus fish for sale come for at least a few hundred dollars.
Therefore who should you approach in order to find discus fish for sale? If there is no authorized breeder in your area, you should try looking for private owners who have successfully mated their pets and consequently may have some discuss fish for sale.
Before you buy them talk to the breeder, have a look at the tank where they are kept in order to ensure that the discus fish for sale is in a healthy condition. If you are not sure you may ask a vet to see the discus fish for sale.
Sometimes, you may be yourself in the position to offer discus fish for sale. Once you've successfully coupled some of your pets you need to isolate the fry in a different tank and feed it chopped worms and special food until they reach maturity. It depends on your willingness to offer discus fish for sale because some people like to keep all the fry with them they love them so much. If that is you remember the parents you mated in the first place could be on the way to having another round of baby fish for you.
Due care should be taken to ensure water cleanliness and for providing hygienic food to raise the fry to a maturity level where the discus fish is ready for sale. The baby discus differs a lot from adult discus when it comes to behavior particularly with respect to the food. The babies are so greedy in their eagerness to grow, whereas the adults nibble at food and take their time before finishing a meal.
Many people offer discus fish for sale before they reach maturity, however, it is a advisable to try and get them from different sources so that new genes can be developed and we can get a lot of variety for more professional advice on discus fish for sale click here
About the Author
Steve is a free lance writer who beleives in living the life to the fullest. His hobbies include writing, Pet-grooming, Swimming and hiking.
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