You know that cats should always have a supply of water, especially if you are feeding them dried food. There on your nice clean kitchen floor is a bowl of nice clean fresh water, in a nice clean bowl.
What does your cat do? Maybe gives the bowl a sniff and walks away from it, or just ignores the bowl completely, as if water were the last thing a self respecting cat would consider drinking.
"Okay", you think to yourself, "Kitty just isn't thirsty at the moment". But then later, you happen to spy your cat busily lapping up stale water from a puddle in your garden as if it was nectar.
Cats are self-reliant, independent creatures, but surely your cat is not going to turn its nose up at the nice clean water you provide, just to let you know it can survive without you? After all, kitty does not reject the food you provide even though it is perfectly capable of catching mice.
No, the answer is not your mouser's independence. Tap water is usually treated with chemicals, often chlorinated strongly enough for a cat to smell it. Cats noses are far more sensitive than human noses and many cats find this chemical odor very offensive. Stale water in puddles and pools has a far more attractive smell are far as a cat is concerned. Puddles may be full of rotten vegetation and microbes, but cats find this organic soup very tasty.
As well as the off-putting odor of chemicals in tap water, cats find the smell of detergents repugnant. So, because you diligently clean your cat's water bowl in the interest of hygiene, the detergent that you use deters your cat from drinking from it. You use the same detergent to wash your cat's food bowl, why then, does your feline friend eat heartily from the bowl, and not be repelled by the smell of the detergent? This is because the aroma of the fish or meat is stronger than the smell of the detergent.
With the water bowl, the combination of the two unpleasant smells, the chemicals in the tap water and the detergent, means that your cat will only quench its thirst from the water bowl if there is no better smelling option to be had.
So, what can you do? You need to rinse your cat's bowl more thoroughly than you would a plate for a human. Remember feline noses are far more sensitive than ours, every trace of detergent needs to be rinsed off. Secondly, let the water from the tap stand for a while before putting the bowl down for your cat, this will allow the chemicals to dissipate.
These two things should have kitty drinking happily from the dish, unless, of course, kitty has got so used to drinking from puddles it just can't kick the organic water habit!
Showing posts with label cat. Show all posts
Showing posts with label cat. Show all posts
10 Oct 2009
24 Aug 2009
Health Problems In Cats
It may come as a surprise, if you're a new cat owner, that many health problems may befall your feline friend. Some problems are easily preventable, while others are hereditary.
Hairballs
Hairballs are among the most common of cat health problems. Cats groom themselves almost constantly, and swallow the loose hair that comes off their tongues. Occasionally, the hair gathers into a ball and lodges in the cat's digestive tract instead of passing on through the body. If your cat starts coughing and hacking, he probably has a hairball. While the end product is unpleasant for the owner, most cats don't have a problem dislodging hairballs.
However, hairballs can occasionally pass into a cat's intestines and cause a blockage. This can be a life-threatening problem. There are a few signs to look for to see if your cat's hairball is dangerous. If your cat is constipated, off his feed, or is lethargic with a dull coat, then he could have a serious blockage. A vet exam is definitely in order.
To prevent hairballs, groom your cat frequently to remove loose hair. In addition, feed your cat food that helps control hairballs.
Worms
For many cats, worms are a recurring problem. Roundworms, tapeworms, and hookworms most commonly infect cats. Cats can occasionally develop heartworms, as well. If your cat seems unable to gain weight, is infested with fleas, or has white specks that look like grains of rice in his stools, take him to the veterinarian for worm testing.
Worms are easily cured with a few doses of medication, but if left untreated, they can be fatal.
Urinary Tract Infections
Urinary tract infections are another common health problem in cats. This infection is particularly common in unneutered male cats, although female cats can also develop this problem. If your cat suddenly stops using the litter box, a urinary tract infection is suspect. If your cat's urine smells strong, again a urinary tract infection may be the cause. These infections need to be treated by a veterinarian. Ask about cat foods that reduce the likelihood of another infection.
Feline Infectious Peritonitis (FIP)
FIP is caused by a mutation of the corona virus. According to some experts, cats living in multi-cat environments tend to test positive for enteric corona virus. Cats can live with that virus remaining quietly in the intestines with no sign of disease for their entire lifetime. In other cases, probably a genetic pre-disposition, the virus mutates into FIP.
Once a cat has contracted FIP, it will display symptoms of a mild upper respiratory infection: sneezing, watery eyes, and nasal discharge. It may also have diarrhea, weight loss and lethargy. Most cats fully recover from this primary infection, although some may become virus carriers. A small percentage of exposed cats develop lethal FIP weeks or even years after the primary infection.
Feline Immunodeficiency Virus
FIV, or cat AIDS, is not always fatal. FIV decreases the ability of the cat's immune system to fight infections. Cats with FIV may remain free of symptoms for years. It is when the cat contracts other illnesses in the chronic stage of FIV infection that FIV is first suspected. This long list of illnesses includes oral-cavity infections, upper-respiratory infections, weight loss, ear infections, kidney disease, and many others. Although there is, as yet, no vaccine, all cats should be tested for the virus. The virus is transmitted through saliva, usually when a cat is bitten in a cat fight.
Feline Leukemia Virus
FLV was, until recently, the most common fatal disease of cats. But with a vaccine now available, the number of cases is dwindling. Although the name leukemia means cancer of the white blood cells, this is only 1 of the many diseases associated with this virus, such as other types of cancer, anemia, arthritis and respiratory infections. FLV is preventable if the cat is immunized before being exposed to the virus. Although the disease is not always immediately fatal, cats with FLV rarely have a long life expectancy. NEVER bring other cats into your household when you have a cat with FLV.
Lyme Disease
If your cat spends time outdoors, you should check him regularly for ticks. If you find a tick on your cat's body and he has been lethargic and acts as if he is in pain, ask your vet to test for Lyme Disease. This disease is transmitted to people and animals by deer ticks.
Some cats may show subtle symptoms while others may show none -- symptoms are hard to recognize and often may be confused with other illnesses or old age. Be observant of your pet's behavior. It is the only way to know if your pet has contracted Lyme disease if no tick was found. Some symptoms of Feline Lyme Disease include:
(a) lethargy,
(b) reluctance to jump or climb stairs,
(c) limping, or reluctance to put weight on a paw,
(d) loss of appetite.
The key to dealing with Feline Lyme Disease is prevention and early diagnosis and treatment. You should reduce the tick population around your home with simple landscape changes and spraying.
Good Health Care
Taking your cat for a regular check-up with the vet, and keeping all vaccinations on schedule will help assure your cat a long and healthy life. Prevention is the first line of defense for most feline illnesses.
Many owners keep their cats indoors to protect them from cars, from cat fights which may expose them to deadly viruses, from ticks, and other hazards.
Outdoor cats will enjoy greater freedom, but require a watchful eye, loving attention to their health status, and regular visits to the veterinarian.
Author : Visit http://www.new-cat.com to learn more. Copyright 2005 Ron King. Ron King is a full-time researcher, writer, and web developer.
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Hairballs
Hairballs are among the most common of cat health problems. Cats groom themselves almost constantly, and swallow the loose hair that comes off their tongues. Occasionally, the hair gathers into a ball and lodges in the cat's digestive tract instead of passing on through the body. If your cat starts coughing and hacking, he probably has a hairball. While the end product is unpleasant for the owner, most cats don't have a problem dislodging hairballs.
However, hairballs can occasionally pass into a cat's intestines and cause a blockage. This can be a life-threatening problem. There are a few signs to look for to see if your cat's hairball is dangerous. If your cat is constipated, off his feed, or is lethargic with a dull coat, then he could have a serious blockage. A vet exam is definitely in order.
To prevent hairballs, groom your cat frequently to remove loose hair. In addition, feed your cat food that helps control hairballs.
Worms
For many cats, worms are a recurring problem. Roundworms, tapeworms, and hookworms most commonly infect cats. Cats can occasionally develop heartworms, as well. If your cat seems unable to gain weight, is infested with fleas, or has white specks that look like grains of rice in his stools, take him to the veterinarian for worm testing.
Worms are easily cured with a few doses of medication, but if left untreated, they can be fatal.
Urinary Tract Infections
Urinary tract infections are another common health problem in cats. This infection is particularly common in unneutered male cats, although female cats can also develop this problem. If your cat suddenly stops using the litter box, a urinary tract infection is suspect. If your cat's urine smells strong, again a urinary tract infection may be the cause. These infections need to be treated by a veterinarian. Ask about cat foods that reduce the likelihood of another infection.
Feline Infectious Peritonitis (FIP)
FIP is caused by a mutation of the corona virus. According to some experts, cats living in multi-cat environments tend to test positive for enteric corona virus. Cats can live with that virus remaining quietly in the intestines with no sign of disease for their entire lifetime. In other cases, probably a genetic pre-disposition, the virus mutates into FIP.
Once a cat has contracted FIP, it will display symptoms of a mild upper respiratory infection: sneezing, watery eyes, and nasal discharge. It may also have diarrhea, weight loss and lethargy. Most cats fully recover from this primary infection, although some may become virus carriers. A small percentage of exposed cats develop lethal FIP weeks or even years after the primary infection.
Feline Immunodeficiency Virus
FIV, or cat AIDS, is not always fatal. FIV decreases the ability of the cat's immune system to fight infections. Cats with FIV may remain free of symptoms for years. It is when the cat contracts other illnesses in the chronic stage of FIV infection that FIV is first suspected. This long list of illnesses includes oral-cavity infections, upper-respiratory infections, weight loss, ear infections, kidney disease, and many others. Although there is, as yet, no vaccine, all cats should be tested for the virus. The virus is transmitted through saliva, usually when a cat is bitten in a cat fight.
Feline Leukemia Virus
FLV was, until recently, the most common fatal disease of cats. But with a vaccine now available, the number of cases is dwindling. Although the name leukemia means cancer of the white blood cells, this is only 1 of the many diseases associated with this virus, such as other types of cancer, anemia, arthritis and respiratory infections. FLV is preventable if the cat is immunized before being exposed to the virus. Although the disease is not always immediately fatal, cats with FLV rarely have a long life expectancy. NEVER bring other cats into your household when you have a cat with FLV.
Lyme Disease
If your cat spends time outdoors, you should check him regularly for ticks. If you find a tick on your cat's body and he has been lethargic and acts as if he is in pain, ask your vet to test for Lyme Disease. This disease is transmitted to people and animals by deer ticks.
Some cats may show subtle symptoms while others may show none -- symptoms are hard to recognize and often may be confused with other illnesses or old age. Be observant of your pet's behavior. It is the only way to know if your pet has contracted Lyme disease if no tick was found. Some symptoms of Feline Lyme Disease include:
(a) lethargy,
(b) reluctance to jump or climb stairs,
(c) limping, or reluctance to put weight on a paw,
(d) loss of appetite.
The key to dealing with Feline Lyme Disease is prevention and early diagnosis and treatment. You should reduce the tick population around your home with simple landscape changes and spraying.
Good Health Care
Taking your cat for a regular check-up with the vet, and keeping all vaccinations on schedule will help assure your cat a long and healthy life. Prevention is the first line of defense for most feline illnesses.
Many owners keep their cats indoors to protect them from cars, from cat fights which may expose them to deadly viruses, from ticks, and other hazards.
Outdoor cats will enjoy greater freedom, but require a watchful eye, loving attention to their health status, and regular visits to the veterinarian.
Author : Visit http://www.new-cat.com to learn more. Copyright 2005 Ron King. Ron King is a full-time researcher, writer, and web developer.
23 Aug 2009
How To Train Kittens To Use The Cat Litter Box
There are several things you need to do to help the mama cat train her kitties to develop good cat litter box habits. While the kids may try to follow mom's example, here's how you can help cement that success.
First, since kittens are so physically small and they're still developing coordination and agility, it's critical that you, the human mom, make sure they can easily get in and out of any cat litter box. The easiest way to do this is buy disposable aluminum roaster pans from your grocery store. Kittens grow as fast as weeds in the summertime, so this is a temporary, but completely justifiable purchase.
If your regular litter boxes are too tall for the babies to climb in and out, they'll become discouraged and they'll select the easiest spot (for them, at least) to eliminate waste. Once they get this idea in their little heads, it could be hard to get out. So, don't give them the excuse!
The type of litter you use for kittens can be dangerous. Since kittens are so darn curious, they test everything with their mouths. If they eat clumping litter, this could kill them. Use a non-clumping litter for several weeks. It won't be any easier to watch them taste test the non-clumping litter, but neither will it be dangerous.
Depending upon the size of the litter, you'll need at least two, and possibly several roasting pans. Since the babies all pretty much eat at the same time, they'll feel the call of nature in a group as well. You can ensure successful cat litter box habits by making certain there are enough boxes to accomodate a group elimination activity.
Young kitties don't have great control of their bladder and bowel functions. Place all cat litter boxes in close proximity to their living quarters. Keep the pans away from their food and water, but don't place them out of the same room, if possible. The closer the pans are, the better the chances are the babies will make it to the box in time to let loose.
Also, make certain that mom is teaching the babies by the time they are five weeks old. If mom seems to be falling down on the job, you must step in during week five of their lives and start the training process. Shortly after the little ones have fed, take them to the litter pan, and place them in it. You may need to gently take a front paw, and scratch for them. Fortunately, almost all cats "get it" very quickly. Your coaching period should be relatively short.
By working with mama cat, the two of you make sure the babies develop good cat litter box habits for life.
Author : Nancy stopped the cat urine odor problem at her home, and kept the kitty that caused it. "18 Ways to Stop Cat Urine Odor Problems" saves you money, time and frustration by solving your cat urine odor problem - permanently. http://www.stopcaturineodor.com
![Reblog this post [with Zemanta]](http://img.zemanta.com/reblog_e.png?x-id=b1a31a8f-701e-49a6-91e4-cf7e951b5d12)
First, since kittens are so physically small and they're still developing coordination and agility, it's critical that you, the human mom, make sure they can easily get in and out of any cat litter box. The easiest way to do this is buy disposable aluminum roaster pans from your grocery store. Kittens grow as fast as weeds in the summertime, so this is a temporary, but completely justifiable purchase.
If your regular litter boxes are too tall for the babies to climb in and out, they'll become discouraged and they'll select the easiest spot (for them, at least) to eliminate waste. Once they get this idea in their little heads, it could be hard to get out. So, don't give them the excuse!
The type of litter you use for kittens can be dangerous. Since kittens are so darn curious, they test everything with their mouths. If they eat clumping litter, this could kill them. Use a non-clumping litter for several weeks. It won't be any easier to watch them taste test the non-clumping litter, but neither will it be dangerous.
Depending upon the size of the litter, you'll need at least two, and possibly several roasting pans. Since the babies all pretty much eat at the same time, they'll feel the call of nature in a group as well. You can ensure successful cat litter box habits by making certain there are enough boxes to accomodate a group elimination activity.
Young kitties don't have great control of their bladder and bowel functions. Place all cat litter boxes in close proximity to their living quarters. Keep the pans away from their food and water, but don't place them out of the same room, if possible. The closer the pans are, the better the chances are the babies will make it to the box in time to let loose.
Also, make certain that mom is teaching the babies by the time they are five weeks old. If mom seems to be falling down on the job, you must step in during week five of their lives and start the training process. Shortly after the little ones have fed, take them to the litter pan, and place them in it. You may need to gently take a front paw, and scratch for them. Fortunately, almost all cats "get it" very quickly. Your coaching period should be relatively short.
By working with mama cat, the two of you make sure the babies develop good cat litter box habits for life.
Author : Nancy stopped the cat urine odor problem at her home, and kept the kitty that caused it. "18 Ways to Stop Cat Urine Odor Problems" saves you money, time and frustration by solving your cat urine odor problem - permanently. http://www.stopcaturineodor.com
10 Aug 2009
Got A Cat As A Pet? Here’s How To Keep Them Healthy
Our cats are often as close to us as members of our family. In fact, they are virtually are members of our family! That's why cat owners should know as they may about cat health. Here are the great things to know on caring for your pet cat in a loving way:
GROOMING: Long-haired cats should be groomed regularly for optimum cat health. Use a pet brush and groom no less frequently than once a week.
Food: Cat health is strongly affected by what your cat eats. Obesity is an important factor heart diseases including as your cat is aging. Choose a pet food for your cat it is true that it s age but feed regularly. Consistency is the key to a well fed cat.
Elderly CATS: some diseases occur simply because your cat is aging. These older persons may be labelled cat health problems. Such as cats age their kidneys and the view fail and that they may need special regimes.
LITTER: The litter may be dangerous for the two cat health and human health if it isn t cleaned regularly. Change your pet s litter least once every four days and keep a small dish of baking soda near the litter.
SCRATCH: scraping is a major cat concern for the health because if a cat scratches regularly that it is often a sign of other problems. If your cat scratching a particular field often try a delousing product, and then take your pet to vocational training.
DECLAWING: Declawing your cat can be a major factor in Cat health. If you choose to declaw your animal it is important to remember to keep the interior at any time.
BEHAVIOR PROBLEMS: many cat health problems concern difficult or uncommon behavior. May be a symptom of depression. Strange aggression is sometimes caused by hormone imbalances.
STRESS: Your cat can easily get stress. Stress situations as moving, traveling, natural disasters or even changes in family cannot affect cat health. To minimize the effects of stress on your animal, buy a tranquillizer for distance travel and have a place in your home where your cat can escape if there are occupied changes to the House.
POISON: make sure you dangerous poisons like the antifreeze cannot be reached by your pet. Some plants are fatal for cats so make sure you to increase your plants and lock your toxins.
PESTS: Parasites such as not, heart worms and rabies can greatly affect cat health. Blood in cat s stool or uncommon appetite are common signs of parasites.
MOUTH: cats have often diseases of the mouth and this may affect cat health. Cats are also subject to gingivitis as humans. For the problems as rodents ulcer or bad breath, your brush cat s teeth with a small child s toothbrush.
Has the interior/exterior : one of the greatest factors in determining cat health is whether your pet goes outside. Cars, children, other animals and toxins are all hazardous and should be avoided by keep your cat interior.
Take care of your cat is critical to your health cats. We hope that this article you provided information that will your pet s life that much more healthy, happy and more.
Author : Michael Erder is the author of http://www.elitepetproducts.com a site completely dedicated to pets and pet products. Visit http://www.elitepetproducts.com and keep your pet happy and healthy!
![Reblog this post [with Zemanta]](http://img.zemanta.com/reblog_e.png?x-id=d94eb6a8-d883-4fde-93cd-4e1a28b58112)
GROOMING: Long-haired cats should be groomed regularly for optimum cat health. Use a pet brush and groom no less frequently than once a week.
Food: Cat health is strongly affected by what your cat eats. Obesity is an important factor heart diseases including as your cat is aging. Choose a pet food for your cat it is true that it s age but feed regularly. Consistency is the key to a well fed cat.
Elderly CATS: some diseases occur simply because your cat is aging. These older persons may be labelled cat health problems. Such as cats age their kidneys and the view fail and that they may need special regimes.
LITTER: The litter may be dangerous for the two cat health and human health if it isn t cleaned regularly. Change your pet s litter least once every four days and keep a small dish of baking soda near the litter.
SCRATCH: scraping is a major cat concern for the health because if a cat scratches regularly that it is often a sign of other problems. If your cat scratching a particular field often try a delousing product, and then take your pet to vocational training.
DECLAWING: Declawing your cat can be a major factor in Cat health. If you choose to declaw your animal it is important to remember to keep the interior at any time.
BEHAVIOR PROBLEMS: many cat health problems concern difficult or uncommon behavior. May be a symptom of depression. Strange aggression is sometimes caused by hormone imbalances.
STRESS: Your cat can easily get stress. Stress situations as moving, traveling, natural disasters or even changes in family cannot affect cat health. To minimize the effects of stress on your animal, buy a tranquillizer for distance travel and have a place in your home where your cat can escape if there are occupied changes to the House.
POISON: make sure you dangerous poisons like the antifreeze cannot be reached by your pet. Some plants are fatal for cats so make sure you to increase your plants and lock your toxins.
PESTS: Parasites such as not, heart worms and rabies can greatly affect cat health. Blood in cat s stool or uncommon appetite are common signs of parasites.
MOUTH: cats have often diseases of the mouth and this may affect cat health. Cats are also subject to gingivitis as humans. For the problems as rodents ulcer or bad breath, your brush cat s teeth with a small child s toothbrush.
Has the interior/exterior : one of the greatest factors in determining cat health is whether your pet goes outside. Cars, children, other animals and toxins are all hazardous and should be avoided by keep your cat interior.
Take care of your cat is critical to your health cats. We hope that this article you provided information that will your pet s life that much more healthy, happy and more.
Author : Michael Erder is the author of http://www.elitepetproducts.com a site completely dedicated to pets and pet products. Visit http://www.elitepetproducts.com and keep your pet happy and healthy!
7 Aug 2009
About Cat Food.
1. Cats need protein in their food for cats cat food you feed your cat should always be rich in proteins. This should generally come from meat, poultry or fish. Many foods for cats marks announce chicken, beef, and tuna flavored cat food because they know that the cats need protein and cat owners are looking for quality cat food. However, you need to ensure the food for cats you buy has a sufficient quantity of food for cats independently of this taste that it is.
2. Feedingstuffs for cats with Taurine also check the cat food you buy generally for one amino acid called taurine. This amino acid is very important in the overall health of your cat, and your cat will eat as much food that he has in order to complement this particular amino acids. Therefore, if you buy cheap cat food that has not good nutrients your cat will eat much. If you buy a nutrient rich food for cats then your cat will eat little and make you save more money while obtaining a good nutrition.
3. Preserved food for cats or dry Cat food? Many people do not know whether they should buy canned or dried food for cats, or if it even. For this reason, many people simply buy food for cats which is the most affordable or convenient for them. It is indeed an error. Cats must be fed a mixture of cat food. Food for cats sec must be given free of charge food, especially if you are far on holiday or for the day. Canned food cat should be supplemented other times so because it has water in the food and significantly more protein than carbohydrates rich sec cat food. Not to mention the same foods more and more could bore your cat, and to cause stop eating as food for cats completely.
4. Avoid cat food fillers cats need to eat food for cats is rich in proteins, so make sure you the amount of fillers is maintained at a minimum. Carbohydrates are not essential for a cat s existence, so don t buy food for cats that is full of them. Instead, read labels and buy food for cats that is not fulfilled of fillers and other by products.
Author : Jay Moncliff is the founder of http://www.catfoodcenter.info a blog focusing on the Cat Food, resources and articles. This site provides detailed information on Cat Food. For more info on Cat Food visit: http://www.catfoodcenter.info![Reblog this post [with Zemanta]](http://img.zemanta.com/reblog_e.png?x-id=5b9c6a7e-0949-4ebb-af54-3cb548475538)
2. Feedingstuffs for cats with Taurine also check the cat food you buy generally for one amino acid called taurine. This amino acid is very important in the overall health of your cat, and your cat will eat as much food that he has in order to complement this particular amino acids. Therefore, if you buy cheap cat food that has not good nutrients your cat will eat much. If you buy a nutrient rich food for cats then your cat will eat little and make you save more money while obtaining a good nutrition.
3. Preserved food for cats or dry Cat food? Many people do not know whether they should buy canned or dried food for cats, or if it even. For this reason, many people simply buy food for cats which is the most affordable or convenient for them. It is indeed an error. Cats must be fed a mixture of cat food. Food for cats sec must be given free of charge food, especially if you are far on holiday or for the day. Canned food cat should be supplemented other times so because it has water in the food and significantly more protein than carbohydrates rich sec cat food. Not to mention the same foods more and more could bore your cat, and to cause stop eating as food for cats completely.
4. Avoid cat food fillers cats need to eat food for cats is rich in proteins, so make sure you the amount of fillers is maintained at a minimum. Carbohydrates are not essential for a cat s existence, so don t buy food for cats that is full of them. Instead, read labels and buy food for cats that is not fulfilled of fillers and other by products.
Author : Jay Moncliff is the founder of http://www.catfoodcenter.info a blog focusing on the Cat Food, resources and articles. This site provides detailed information on Cat Food. For more info on Cat Food visit: http://www.catfoodcenter.info
19 Jun 2009
Caring For The Older Cat
The world of today is revolving on advanced technological inventions and medical science. Markets are full of goods that are highly nutritious and for the calorie conscious. If you thought that the market is meant to cater to us humans only then you might be wrong. Off late, there has been a surge in the availability of highly nutritious pet supplies, which along with modern medicines have allowed cats to live beyond their normal age.
Some 30 years back, cats always moved around the house and even out of the house unsupervised. This caused several accidents that claimed many lives. Apart from that cat distemper is one of the deadliest diseases that have claimed many a life. According to a study conducted by National Research Counsel, it has been found that taurine is essential nutrients that can help cats lead a healthy life. Due to nutritious food consisting of taurine, it has been seen that there are more and more cats that enjoy a life over twelve. This is a remarkable breakthrough as far as pet health is concerned.
Again like humans, pet health and longer life cycle is genetically driven. There are some cats that enjoy exceptional pet health due to the genes they have inherited and this allows them to live beyond their normal lifespan. If your cat is getting older then it doesn’t mean that it is nearing death or that you should stop taking care of the cat. The older they get, the more important it is to take care of pet health. In fact, when you shop for pet supplies, you need to bear in mind the fact that the food or nutrition requirements for an older cat are different from that of a young cat. Above all, one thing that shouldn’t lessen is the amount of love for your cat. After all, ageing is a natural process and it is something we will never have control over. But what we can have control over is things like taking care of pet health, regular check ups and good and nutritious food. As your cat grows older, you need to be with him or her more so that he or she feels more loved and taken care of. At the end of the day, he or she is not just a pet but an integral part of our lives.
About Author : Mark Stimpson / im Mark work for a website selling cheap Pet Supplies
Some 30 years back, cats always moved around the house and even out of the house unsupervised. This caused several accidents that claimed many lives. Apart from that cat distemper is one of the deadliest diseases that have claimed many a life. According to a study conducted by National Research Counsel, it has been found that taurine is essential nutrients that can help cats lead a healthy life. Due to nutritious food consisting of taurine, it has been seen that there are more and more cats that enjoy a life over twelve. This is a remarkable breakthrough as far as pet health is concerned.
Again like humans, pet health and longer life cycle is genetically driven. There are some cats that enjoy exceptional pet health due to the genes they have inherited and this allows them to live beyond their normal lifespan. If your cat is getting older then it doesn’t mean that it is nearing death or that you should stop taking care of the cat. The older they get, the more important it is to take care of pet health. In fact, when you shop for pet supplies, you need to bear in mind the fact that the food or nutrition requirements for an older cat are different from that of a young cat. Above all, one thing that shouldn’t lessen is the amount of love for your cat. After all, ageing is a natural process and it is something we will never have control over. But what we can have control over is things like taking care of pet health, regular check ups and good and nutritious food. As your cat grows older, you need to be with him or her more so that he or she feels more loved and taken care of. At the end of the day, he or she is not just a pet but an integral part of our lives.
About Author : Mark Stimpson / im Mark work for a website selling cheap Pet Supplies
26 May 2009
4 Things to Think About Before Declawing your Cat
Declawing is a major surgery known as onychectomy, performed under anesthesia, that removes the tip of each digit (from the first knuckle out) of the cat's forepaws. There is a slight chance of death in the surgery, and a declawed cat may have an increased risk of infection and life-long discomfort in its paws. This surgery is not recommended for an adult animal and is considered an act of animal cruelty in some countries (see below).
People generally have cats declawed to prevent them from hunting and from damaging furniture. Rarely, vicious cats are declawed. In the United States, some landlords require that tenants' cats be declawed.
Veterinarians are generally critical of the procedure and some refuse to perform it because the absence of claws in a cat:
1. Deprives it of its main defense abilities, including escaping from predators by climbing trees;
2. Impairs its stretching and exercise habits, leading to muscle atrophy;
3. Compromises its ability to balance on thin surfaces such as railings and fence tops, leading to injury from falls;
4. Can cause insecurity and a subsequent tendency to bite.
This operation is rare outside of North America. In Finland, Germany, the Netherlands and Switzerland, declawing is forbidden by the laws against cruelty to animals. In many other European countries, it is forbidden under the terms of the European Convention for the Protection of Pet Animals, unless "a veterinarian considers [such] non-curative procedures necessary either for veterinary medical reasons or for the benefit of (the) animal". In Britain, animal shelters find it difficult to place imported cats that have been declawed and subsequently most are euthanized.
An alternative to declawing is the application of blunt, vinyl nail caps that are affixed to the claws with nontoxic glue, requiring periodic replacement when the cat sheds its claw sheaths (about every four to six weeks). However, the cat will still experience difficulties because the capped nails are not as effective as claws.
People generally have cats declawed to prevent them from hunting and from damaging furniture. Rarely, vicious cats are declawed. In the United States, some landlords require that tenants' cats be declawed.
Veterinarians are generally critical of the procedure and some refuse to perform it because the absence of claws in a cat:
1. Deprives it of its main defense abilities, including escaping from predators by climbing trees;
2. Impairs its stretching and exercise habits, leading to muscle atrophy;
3. Compromises its ability to balance on thin surfaces such as railings and fence tops, leading to injury from falls;
4. Can cause insecurity and a subsequent tendency to bite.
This operation is rare outside of North America. In Finland, Germany, the Netherlands and Switzerland, declawing is forbidden by the laws against cruelty to animals. In many other European countries, it is forbidden under the terms of the European Convention for the Protection of Pet Animals, unless "a veterinarian considers [such] non-curative procedures necessary either for veterinary medical reasons or for the benefit of (the) animal". In Britain, animal shelters find it difficult to place imported cats that have been declawed and subsequently most are euthanized.
An alternative to declawing is the application of blunt, vinyl nail caps that are affixed to the claws with nontoxic glue, requiring periodic replacement when the cat sheds its claw sheaths (about every four to six weeks). However, the cat will still experience difficulties because the capped nails are not as effective as claws.
18 May 2009
How To Train Your Cat To Use Cat Scratching Posts
Cats are cute. Cats are loveable. Unfortunately, many cats love to scratch your furniture and carpets. If you do not want to replace your sofa every few months, you will need to train your cat to use cat scratching posts. Although this is not a difficult task, it can be time-consuming. It needs a lot of love, patience and understanding from you. If you cannot make this kind of commitment to your feline friend, you are better of giving him away.
Having said that, here is a shortcut which work for many cats. Catnip works wonders for training your cat to use the scratching post. For your convenience, modern science has created a catnip spray which you can use to spray the cat scratching post. You should place this post near the sofa or furniture where your cat likes to scratch. You should also get a cat repellant spray - to spray the places where he likes to scratch.
Many cats scratch furniture as a means of marking their territory. The scratching serves as a visible mark and also leaves behind a scent from the glands in his paws. This means your cat, or cats, probably have more than one favorite piece of furniture where they like to scratch. You will need to buy more than one scratching post.
Cats also scratch furniture as part of their exercise, as well as to shed the dead outer layers of their claws. You should not buy a cat scratching post just because it looks cool. You should buy a post which fits your cat best. One way is to find something which feels like your furniture or carpet. Do not limit your thoughts to just a scratching post. Cats which like to scratch carpets often respond well to something flat laid down flat on the ground. If your cat is like this, it may take longer to train him to use a vertical scratching post.
Given this fact, it is better if you only buy cat scratching posts from your local shops - where you can see and feel the material of the post. If it looks or feels different from the furniture which your cat is scratching now, he is unlikely to switch to the new post. This factor makes buying cat furniture online a bit chancy.
Cat scratching posts bought from the store can be expensive for some cat owners. Here are some ideas for cheap, homemade cat furniture:
* Cheap, square pieces of carpet which you can buy from WalMart, etc. Should cost you under $10. You may also be able to get some free from your local carpet shop.
* Cardboard cartons and boxes - you should be able to get these free from your local grocery shop.
* Wooden logs.
* Old furniture, or parts of old furniture. If you have some handy wood-working skills, you can turn a small cabinet into a cat house.
* Rough wooden planks.
Here is another shortcut to prevent your cat from damaging your furniture - regularly take him to the vet to get his nails clipped, either once or twice a month. The vet will clip the hooked part of the claw. This is the part which causes the most damage to your furniture and carpet. You may want the vet to teach you how to do it yourself. Please note that this is different from declawing your cat, which is cruel and inhumane. Declawing actually involves chopping off the tips of your cats toes. How would you feel if someone cut off the tips of your fingers?
Some cats appear intransigent, and refuse to use the cat scratching post. The fact is, you may just need to understand him better. And also use a different way of training him. You have to remember that shortcuts do not always work.
Having said that, here is a shortcut which work for many cats. Catnip works wonders for training your cat to use the scratching post. For your convenience, modern science has created a catnip spray which you can use to spray the cat scratching post. You should place this post near the sofa or furniture where your cat likes to scratch. You should also get a cat repellant spray - to spray the places where he likes to scratch.
Many cats scratch furniture as a means of marking their territory. The scratching serves as a visible mark and also leaves behind a scent from the glands in his paws. This means your cat, or cats, probably have more than one favorite piece of furniture where they like to scratch. You will need to buy more than one scratching post.
Cats also scratch furniture as part of their exercise, as well as to shed the dead outer layers of their claws. You should not buy a cat scratching post just because it looks cool. You should buy a post which fits your cat best. One way is to find something which feels like your furniture or carpet. Do not limit your thoughts to just a scratching post. Cats which like to scratch carpets often respond well to something flat laid down flat on the ground. If your cat is like this, it may take longer to train him to use a vertical scratching post.
Given this fact, it is better if you only buy cat scratching posts from your local shops - where you can see and feel the material of the post. If it looks or feels different from the furniture which your cat is scratching now, he is unlikely to switch to the new post. This factor makes buying cat furniture online a bit chancy.
Cat scratching posts bought from the store can be expensive for some cat owners. Here are some ideas for cheap, homemade cat furniture:
* Cheap, square pieces of carpet which you can buy from WalMart, etc. Should cost you under $10. You may also be able to get some free from your local carpet shop.
* Cardboard cartons and boxes - you should be able to get these free from your local grocery shop.
* Wooden logs.
* Old furniture, or parts of old furniture. If you have some handy wood-working skills, you can turn a small cabinet into a cat house.
* Rough wooden planks.
Here is another shortcut to prevent your cat from damaging your furniture - regularly take him to the vet to get his nails clipped, either once or twice a month. The vet will clip the hooked part of the claw. This is the part which causes the most damage to your furniture and carpet. You may want the vet to teach you how to do it yourself. Please note that this is different from declawing your cat, which is cruel and inhumane. Declawing actually involves chopping off the tips of your cats toes. How would you feel if someone cut off the tips of your fingers?
Some cats appear intransigent, and refuse to use the cat scratching post. The fact is, you may just need to understand him better. And also use a different way of training him. You have to remember that shortcuts do not always work.
Cat Scratch Disease: My Cat Just Scratched Me, What Do I Do?
Cat scratch disease is also known as cat scratch fever. This disease strikes people who are infected by the Bartonella henselae bacteria. In almost all cases, cat scratch disease occurs when the person was scratched or bitten by his cat. The cat itself does not catch cat scratch disease. It is just a carrier. Now, before you panic and send your cat to the pound, the National Center for Infectious Diseases (CDC) estimates that 40% of all cats carry this disease at some time in their lives. Considering how many cat owners exist in the world, clearly, this disease is not very infectious or dangerous.
But how do you know whether you were infected by cat scratch disease? The first thing you want to look at is the place your cat bit or scratched you. Is the wound infected? (Note: If you cannot find the wound, then you do not have cat scratch disease.) Then you want to check your lymph nodes. Are the nodes around your head, neck and upper limbs swollen? Do you also have fever, headache, fatigue, and a poor appetite? These are the typical cat scratch fever symptoms.
What can you do? The first step is always preventative. If you own a cat, or play with cats, you will definitely get bitten or scratched. What you should do every time you get scratched is simply to clean the wound with soap and running water. Then clean it with an antiseptic like peroxide and apply an antibiotic cream (neosporin works pretty well). Just applying these basic hygiene practises will prevent most cases of infection from cat bites or scratches, not just cat scratch disease.
What if you have already been infected - your wound is swollen and reddish, your lymph nodes are swollen and you have a fever? Then just go to your doctor. He will probably give you an antibiotic, and maybe drain the wound if necessary. You should also send your cats to the vet. Let him make sure they are not still carrying the bacteria. Otherwise they may infect you again, or infect other people.
In the long run, you need to train your cats not to bite or scratch too hard. Your cats need to learn how to show affection without drawing blood from you. And you need to learn not to provoke or over-excite your cats.
Provided that you are not the one who provoked the cat scratch, you can spray kitty with water every time it bites or scratches you. This means you will need to carry around a spray bottle with you at home. Spray kitty consistently when it bites you, and it will learn to stop biting you. Remember to spray when it bites - not 30 seconds later, or 1 minute later, or 5 minutes later. It will only learn if your response is immediate. Too many people spray only after the cat scratched or bit, then they complain that the technique does not work.
If your cat tends to bite or scratch you during playtime, then you need a different approach. Play with your cat normally. When he bites or scratches you, stop playing and ignore him. Too many people just continue playing - unfortunately, this teaches kitty that biting or scratching is good.
As you can see, cat scratch disease is not a big deal. As long as you practice basic hygiene, and train your cat not to bite or scratch too much, everything should be alright.
by Katherin Towers
But how do you know whether you were infected by cat scratch disease? The first thing you want to look at is the place your cat bit or scratched you. Is the wound infected? (Note: If you cannot find the wound, then you do not have cat scratch disease.) Then you want to check your lymph nodes. Are the nodes around your head, neck and upper limbs swollen? Do you also have fever, headache, fatigue, and a poor appetite? These are the typical cat scratch fever symptoms.
What can you do? The first step is always preventative. If you own a cat, or play with cats, you will definitely get bitten or scratched. What you should do every time you get scratched is simply to clean the wound with soap and running water. Then clean it with an antiseptic like peroxide and apply an antibiotic cream (neosporin works pretty well). Just applying these basic hygiene practises will prevent most cases of infection from cat bites or scratches, not just cat scratch disease.
What if you have already been infected - your wound is swollen and reddish, your lymph nodes are swollen and you have a fever? Then just go to your doctor. He will probably give you an antibiotic, and maybe drain the wound if necessary. You should also send your cats to the vet. Let him make sure they are not still carrying the bacteria. Otherwise they may infect you again, or infect other people.
In the long run, you need to train your cats not to bite or scratch too hard. Your cats need to learn how to show affection without drawing blood from you. And you need to learn not to provoke or over-excite your cats.
Provided that you are not the one who provoked the cat scratch, you can spray kitty with water every time it bites or scratches you. This means you will need to carry around a spray bottle with you at home. Spray kitty consistently when it bites you, and it will learn to stop biting you. Remember to spray when it bites - not 30 seconds later, or 1 minute later, or 5 minutes later. It will only learn if your response is immediate. Too many people spray only after the cat scratched or bit, then they complain that the technique does not work.
If your cat tends to bite or scratch you during playtime, then you need a different approach. Play with your cat normally. When he bites or scratches you, stop playing and ignore him. Too many people just continue playing - unfortunately, this teaches kitty that biting or scratching is good.
As you can see, cat scratch disease is not a big deal. As long as you practice basic hygiene, and train your cat not to bite or scratch too much, everything should be alright.
by Katherin Towers
14 May 2009
13 ways to save your furniture from cat scratching
The cats are great pets. They love to play, they love to cuddle when you are watching TV or sleeping, and they purr for no reason other than being near you. But they also love to scratch. Unfortunately, the things they love to scratch are often the legs of your antique table, your upholstered sofa, or your expensive carpet.
Although many humans do not appreciate when their cats scratching, you have to know that kittens and cats do not scratch to make us angry, they just need to scratch. Scratching is a natural hardwired behavior in cats, just like breathing and purring, and every cat owner must know WHY THE CATS SCRATCH.
In the wild, cats scratch around their immediate environment to signal their presence to other cats and to claim the area in question. The marking takes two forms: visual and olfactory. The visual is in the form of clawing marks and is so obvious that even we humans can recognise it. The olfactory mark is subtler, involving the release of pheromones. These are substances secreted from the body to be picked up by the number of the same species, causing them to alter their behavior.
Scratching has additional function too. It removes the nail sheaths, outer layer of dead cells from the claw. You might thing your cat scratches to sharpen her claws, but it more likely it provides her with a form of physical therapy for the muscles and tendons of her paws.
There are two groups of target for every cat. The first one is when your cat target one or two areas in the home, usually near important territorial areas such as: sleeping area, litter tray, hunting or play areas. The second one is your cat undertake more widespread and destructive scratching in highly visible sites such as: doorways, windows, prominent furnishings - like sofas.
WHAT YOU CAN DO IF YOUR CAT SCRATCHING YOUR FURNITURE?
1. The easiest but the most painful method for cat is declawing. Faced with cat scratching problems, many people consider declawing surgery. But many veterinarians believe declawing is a painful and unnecessary surgery and refuse to do it for humane reasons. Instead, they advocate training your cat to use a scratching post.
2. Make sure there are multiple scratching opportunities. Cats often like to scratch after eating and sleeping, so be sure there is something to scratch near where they eat and sleep. A scratching post is an excellent investment for your cat. It will allow her to scratch, stretch and exercise all at once. If you want to provide your cat not only with scratching surface, but and places where she can climb, perch and sleep you should consider cat tree.
3. Cover the furniture with something your cat does not like: double sided tape, some plastic or aluminium foil. Some cats dislike the feeling and sound of foil, and most cats hate things that stick to their fur. Double-sided sticky tape used in carpet installation works well, but be sure the tape won’t harm your cat or furniture.
4. Keep your cat mentally stimulated and offers her plenty of opportunity for exercise, and she will has less opportunity to be destructive in your home. If your cat is frustrated and bored, she may scratch your furniture or tear your drapes. Give her enough play time. Cats are motivated by smell, sound, texture and movement. The toys you use should aim to cover all these aspects. Discover your cat’s preferences by presenting a variety different sized toy made from different materials and watch her reaction to gauge her preferences.
5. Cutting the nails regularly may help keep a cat from scratching the furniture, or at least reduce the damage done by its scratching. Get your kitten used to having its nails clipped while it is young, praise her while you clip the nail and reward her with a treat.
6. Booby trap the furniture with a soda can with some pennies in it, so that if cat scratches, it makes a noise.
7. Use a doorknob alarm on your curtains. When pinned to the drapes, the alarm will sound every time your cat tries to use curtains as a ladder.
8. Consider a window perch for your feline friend. It will give your cat hours of entertainment - especially if you place a bird or squirrel feeder in the garden outside the window. Be sure the window is closed so your pet won’t fall out.
9. When you catch your cat scratching furniture, try squirting her with a water pistol or squirt bottle and use a firm ‘no’. Of course, this won’t stop your cat when you are not around.
10. If your cat is gaining access to a high bookcase by leaping from a nearby chair, move the chair. Without her launchpad, your cat will no longer be able to reach her perch.
11. You can also try taping inflated balloons to the problem areas. When your cat pops one with her claws, she will avoid scratching there again. However, try this only when you are at home, so you can pick up the balloon pieces before your cat tries to eat them.
12. There are training devices that keep cats off forbidden areas by making annoying sounds. They are available at pet supply stores, catalogs and websites.
13. If your cat still scratches in appropriate places, use some sprays like bitter apple or actual orange peels, which are good deterrents.
All forms of physical punishment should be avoided since they can cause fear or aggression toward the owner, and at best, the cat will only learn to stop the scratching while the owner is around.
It does not matter which method you will choose to prevent your furniture destroying, every cat owner mush know that it is impractical and unfair to expect cats to stop scratching entirely.
by PETAR PETROV
Although many humans do not appreciate when their cats scratching, you have to know that kittens and cats do not scratch to make us angry, they just need to scratch. Scratching is a natural hardwired behavior in cats, just like breathing and purring, and every cat owner must know WHY THE CATS SCRATCH.
In the wild, cats scratch around their immediate environment to signal their presence to other cats and to claim the area in question. The marking takes two forms: visual and olfactory. The visual is in the form of clawing marks and is so obvious that even we humans can recognise it. The olfactory mark is subtler, involving the release of pheromones. These are substances secreted from the body to be picked up by the number of the same species, causing them to alter their behavior.
Scratching has additional function too. It removes the nail sheaths, outer layer of dead cells from the claw. You might thing your cat scratches to sharpen her claws, but it more likely it provides her with a form of physical therapy for the muscles and tendons of her paws.
There are two groups of target for every cat. The first one is when your cat target one or two areas in the home, usually near important territorial areas such as: sleeping area, litter tray, hunting or play areas. The second one is your cat undertake more widespread and destructive scratching in highly visible sites such as: doorways, windows, prominent furnishings - like sofas.
WHAT YOU CAN DO IF YOUR CAT SCRATCHING YOUR FURNITURE?
1. The easiest but the most painful method for cat is declawing. Faced with cat scratching problems, many people consider declawing surgery. But many veterinarians believe declawing is a painful and unnecessary surgery and refuse to do it for humane reasons. Instead, they advocate training your cat to use a scratching post.
2. Make sure there are multiple scratching opportunities. Cats often like to scratch after eating and sleeping, so be sure there is something to scratch near where they eat and sleep. A scratching post is an excellent investment for your cat. It will allow her to scratch, stretch and exercise all at once. If you want to provide your cat not only with scratching surface, but and places where she can climb, perch and sleep you should consider cat tree.
3. Cover the furniture with something your cat does not like: double sided tape, some plastic or aluminium foil. Some cats dislike the feeling and sound of foil, and most cats hate things that stick to their fur. Double-sided sticky tape used in carpet installation works well, but be sure the tape won’t harm your cat or furniture.
4. Keep your cat mentally stimulated and offers her plenty of opportunity for exercise, and she will has less opportunity to be destructive in your home. If your cat is frustrated and bored, she may scratch your furniture or tear your drapes. Give her enough play time. Cats are motivated by smell, sound, texture and movement. The toys you use should aim to cover all these aspects. Discover your cat’s preferences by presenting a variety different sized toy made from different materials and watch her reaction to gauge her preferences.
5. Cutting the nails regularly may help keep a cat from scratching the furniture, or at least reduce the damage done by its scratching. Get your kitten used to having its nails clipped while it is young, praise her while you clip the nail and reward her with a treat.
6. Booby trap the furniture with a soda can with some pennies in it, so that if cat scratches, it makes a noise.
7. Use a doorknob alarm on your curtains. When pinned to the drapes, the alarm will sound every time your cat tries to use curtains as a ladder.
8. Consider a window perch for your feline friend. It will give your cat hours of entertainment - especially if you place a bird or squirrel feeder in the garden outside the window. Be sure the window is closed so your pet won’t fall out.
9. When you catch your cat scratching furniture, try squirting her with a water pistol or squirt bottle and use a firm ‘no’. Of course, this won’t stop your cat when you are not around.
10. If your cat is gaining access to a high bookcase by leaping from a nearby chair, move the chair. Without her launchpad, your cat will no longer be able to reach her perch.
11. You can also try taping inflated balloons to the problem areas. When your cat pops one with her claws, she will avoid scratching there again. However, try this only when you are at home, so you can pick up the balloon pieces before your cat tries to eat them.
12. There are training devices that keep cats off forbidden areas by making annoying sounds. They are available at pet supply stores, catalogs and websites.
13. If your cat still scratches in appropriate places, use some sprays like bitter apple or actual orange peels, which are good deterrents.
All forms of physical punishment should be avoided since they can cause fear or aggression toward the owner, and at best, the cat will only learn to stop the scratching while the owner is around.
It does not matter which method you will choose to prevent your furniture destroying, every cat owner mush know that it is impractical and unfair to expect cats to stop scratching entirely.
by PETAR PETROV
9 Jun 2008
Taking Care of an Older Cat
Cats are not turtles. Okay, I know what you're thinking, people aren't turtles, either. However, when you really think about it, people are a lot closer to turtles than cats in the sense that turtles, as well as people, can live to be 100 years or more. Not so for cats. In fact, in human terms, a cat who's surpassed twelve years would be applying for their old age pension. Certainly cats can live longer than twelve years and, in fact, thanks to many factors, cats really are living much longer these days.
Dedicated care from their human companions plus advances in veterinary medicine are the main reasons. Most experts consider a cat's "senior years" to begin on her 10th birthday. After this point, the aging process begins to slow in even the most playful feline. Yet, with a little extra attention from her resident human, a cat could enjoy another 5-10 years of life and love.
As with humans, cats often lose the ability to hear as they get older. This often goes unnoticed by their human companion because they think their cat's lack of response is just typical feline aloofness. Unfortunately, without keen hearing and vision, an older cat becomes more vulnerable to threats from cars and dogs on the street, so it's probably a good idea to keep an older cat indoors. If she loves the fresh air, then make sure you supervise her in a protected area when she is allowed outdoors.
Even the most easygoing cat can become a finicky eater in her later years. As an older cat's senses of smell and taste begin to diminish, she becomes less interested in her food. Try adding moist food and warming her meals to amplify the scent and make her dinner more tantalizing.
Also, it's important to keep fresh water available for your older cat, and to monitor her drinking habits. Her natural thirst drive can fade with age, causing her to become dangerously dehydrated rather quickly. Pay attention to about how much water your cat drinks each day. If the amount suddenly drops, and you know she is not getting water from any other source, you should consider contacting your veterinarian.
Common problems people see their older cats develop include difficulties swallowing due to decreased saliva production, less tolerance to extreme heat and/or cold, gum disease and tooth loss, a change in litter habits, and difficulty sleeping well.
Recent studies have uncovered a problem with potassium balance in many older cats. Poor coat condition, loss of appetite and lethargy have been linked to a mild form of hypokalemia, or low blood potassium. Low blood potassium damages the cat's kidneys, which, in an older cat, are already weakening. This leads to a vicious cycle because declining kidney function increases the loss of potassium in the blood, which in turn causes further deterioration of the kidneys.
Arthritis and stiffness is fairly common in older cats as well and as it becomes more difficult to move, a geriatric cat spends more time sleeping. If her diet stays the same, she'll begin to put on a lot of extra weight. This can add to her discomfort which makes her more inclined not to move. Without exercise her muscles will weaken, so it's important to encourage an older cat to take part in some activity every day. Physical movement will help with digestion and bowel function, as well as keep her sharp mentally.
As a cat gets older, it spends less time grooming itself which may result in her hair becoming dry and matted. Regular grooming is required to keep her coat healthy and beautiful, so it's best to schedule daily brushing to remove loose hair that can form uncomfortable hairballs in her stomach.
So, as I said, cats aren't turtles. However, with love and care they can live for fifteen years or more. But remember, just as senior humans require special care, so does your feline friend. Pay attention to their needs and help make them as comfortable as possible.
By: Glenn Cutforth
Dedicated care from their human companions plus advances in veterinary medicine are the main reasons. Most experts consider a cat's "senior years" to begin on her 10th birthday. After this point, the aging process begins to slow in even the most playful feline. Yet, with a little extra attention from her resident human, a cat could enjoy another 5-10 years of life and love.
As with humans, cats often lose the ability to hear as they get older. This often goes unnoticed by their human companion because they think their cat's lack of response is just typical feline aloofness. Unfortunately, without keen hearing and vision, an older cat becomes more vulnerable to threats from cars and dogs on the street, so it's probably a good idea to keep an older cat indoors. If she loves the fresh air, then make sure you supervise her in a protected area when she is allowed outdoors.
Even the most easygoing cat can become a finicky eater in her later years. As an older cat's senses of smell and taste begin to diminish, she becomes less interested in her food. Try adding moist food and warming her meals to amplify the scent and make her dinner more tantalizing.
Also, it's important to keep fresh water available for your older cat, and to monitor her drinking habits. Her natural thirst drive can fade with age, causing her to become dangerously dehydrated rather quickly. Pay attention to about how much water your cat drinks each day. If the amount suddenly drops, and you know she is not getting water from any other source, you should consider contacting your veterinarian.
Common problems people see their older cats develop include difficulties swallowing due to decreased saliva production, less tolerance to extreme heat and/or cold, gum disease and tooth loss, a change in litter habits, and difficulty sleeping well.
Recent studies have uncovered a problem with potassium balance in many older cats. Poor coat condition, loss of appetite and lethargy have been linked to a mild form of hypokalemia, or low blood potassium. Low blood potassium damages the cat's kidneys, which, in an older cat, are already weakening. This leads to a vicious cycle because declining kidney function increases the loss of potassium in the blood, which in turn causes further deterioration of the kidneys.
Arthritis and stiffness is fairly common in older cats as well and as it becomes more difficult to move, a geriatric cat spends more time sleeping. If her diet stays the same, she'll begin to put on a lot of extra weight. This can add to her discomfort which makes her more inclined not to move. Without exercise her muscles will weaken, so it's important to encourage an older cat to take part in some activity every day. Physical movement will help with digestion and bowel function, as well as keep her sharp mentally.
As a cat gets older, it spends less time grooming itself which may result in her hair becoming dry and matted. Regular grooming is required to keep her coat healthy and beautiful, so it's best to schedule daily brushing to remove loose hair that can form uncomfortable hairballs in her stomach.
So, as I said, cats aren't turtles. However, with love and care they can live for fifteen years or more. But remember, just as senior humans require special care, so does your feline friend. Pay attention to their needs and help make them as comfortable as possible.
By: Glenn Cutforth
Cats And Pills - Tablets.
Nearly everything alive becomes ill at some stage in its life, and pets are no exception. I have been very fortunate in that my two cats have been very healthy for most of their lives. Recently the oldest cat become ill and had to go to the vet. Unfortunately she was diagnosed with a form of cancer. The treatment options were pills or radiation 'therapy'. The radiation therapy was very expensive so that left the pills. Pills are fine for humans, but if you have ever tried to administer pills to your cat then you would know some of the problems I have had.
I usually feed my cats on a dry 'all in one' biscuit diet. This diet and a supplement of fresh food has kept them very healthy for over 14years. But now I need to add pills to her diet every twelve hours. So what do I feed her that will hide the pill well enough for her to eat it without complaining? Well after some experimentation I came to the conclusion that hiding a whole pill was not the answer. Not the answer at all. Whole pills are located and removed from the food with amazing accuracy. The simple answer is to crush the pills before adding them to the food.
( Note : The pill should be added to a small quantity of food - half a normal serve or less, and that small quantity should be given to your pet BEFORE the rest of the meal. This helps to ensure your cat is hungry enough to eat the entire pill. Once the pill food is eaten you can give them the rest of the meal.)
Pills are usually quite easy to crush into powder, I use two spoons, one small teaspoon as the crusher, and a larger desert spoon to hold the pill. Place the pill into the larger spoon and using the edge of the small spoon as a blunt knife, carefully break the pill into smaller chunks. Now use the small teaspoon to gently crush the chunks into powder. In less than two minutes you should be ready to sprinkle the powdered pill onto a small serve of food. Crushing the pill gets much easier once you have done two or three.
This is how I prepare chicken or fish for my cat at pill time :
Chicken : Cooked (cold)
Cooked chicken is a favorite food of my cats so it is a good pill food for them. To make the most reliable pill hiding food from cold chicken is really quite easy. First of all you need to prepare the pill by crushing it into a powder as described above. Then you need a small serve of chicken that you can breakup into smallish pieces - use your fingers, it gives the best results. Once you have broken up the chicken add a small quantity of water to the serving plate and roll the chicken in the water until it is wet all over. Now drain the excess water from the plate - too much water will leave the pill on the plate and not on the food where it needs to be. The next step is optional, but it makes a big difference for my pets. The next step is to place the food in a microwave oven. All you want to do is VERY GENTLY warm up the food, I use about 6 SECONDS on high. What you are looking for is to remove the coldness of the food - which activates the SMELL of the food. Do not make the food hot! ( The heat could damage the pill that you are trying to feed them, and not many cats will eat hot food anyway.) Now that you have a very gently warmed serve of food it is time to add the pill. Just sprinkle the crushed pill over the wet, warm chicken and serve it up!
Note : Always add the Pill LAST!
Fish : Raw
If you want to use raw fish as a pill serving food then it pays to make sure that the cat in question likes the fish that you are going to use. ( Cats are fussy!) I have two cats, one eats fish at every opportunity, and the other will walk right past it and ask for something else..
So get a small piece of fish to test the cat with, and assuming that the fish is accepted it is easy to prepare. I use a pair of kitchen scissors to cut the fish into small pieces. A sharp knife is ok but the skin on fish is very tough, so for safety and ease of preparation I use scissors. Once you have the fish cut up all you need to do is sprinkle the powdered pill over the fish and serve it up. Raw fish is usually wet and quite smelly, so it doesn't require water to be added or the microwave to warm it up.
Fish : Cooked (cold)
To prepare a cooked cold fish you basically follow the steps outlined for cooked chicken. Prepare the pill, get a small bit of cooked fish and cut or break it up into small pieces. Make it wet, drain off the excess water and zap it in the microwave for a few seconds - do not make the food hot! Add the crushed pill to the warm wet fish and serve it up.
Note : Always add the Pill LAST!
The purpose of warming up the food is to make it smellier. Most food has a much stronger scent or smell when it is at room temperature than it does straight from the fridge.
If you need a small quantity of fresh raw fish it can usually be purchased from your local take away food shop. If you want to use cooked fish from a take away shop bear in mind that the batter or bread crumbs should be removed before it is served to the cat. (Well, it should be removed if your cat won't eat the fish with it still on there..) Also remember to cool the fish down to about room temperature before you add the pill - otherwise the heat may damage the pill.
Never microwave any pill - it could damage the active ingredients or even make them toxic to your pet.
By: Colin Visser
I usually feed my cats on a dry 'all in one' biscuit diet. This diet and a supplement of fresh food has kept them very healthy for over 14years. But now I need to add pills to her diet every twelve hours. So what do I feed her that will hide the pill well enough for her to eat it without complaining? Well after some experimentation I came to the conclusion that hiding a whole pill was not the answer. Not the answer at all. Whole pills are located and removed from the food with amazing accuracy. The simple answer is to crush the pills before adding them to the food.
( Note : The pill should be added to a small quantity of food - half a normal serve or less, and that small quantity should be given to your pet BEFORE the rest of the meal. This helps to ensure your cat is hungry enough to eat the entire pill. Once the pill food is eaten you can give them the rest of the meal.)
Pills are usually quite easy to crush into powder, I use two spoons, one small teaspoon as the crusher, and a larger desert spoon to hold the pill. Place the pill into the larger spoon and using the edge of the small spoon as a blunt knife, carefully break the pill into smaller chunks. Now use the small teaspoon to gently crush the chunks into powder. In less than two minutes you should be ready to sprinkle the powdered pill onto a small serve of food. Crushing the pill gets much easier once you have done two or three.
This is how I prepare chicken or fish for my cat at pill time :
Chicken : Cooked (cold)
Cooked chicken is a favorite food of my cats so it is a good pill food for them. To make the most reliable pill hiding food from cold chicken is really quite easy. First of all you need to prepare the pill by crushing it into a powder as described above. Then you need a small serve of chicken that you can breakup into smallish pieces - use your fingers, it gives the best results. Once you have broken up the chicken add a small quantity of water to the serving plate and roll the chicken in the water until it is wet all over. Now drain the excess water from the plate - too much water will leave the pill on the plate and not on the food where it needs to be. The next step is optional, but it makes a big difference for my pets. The next step is to place the food in a microwave oven. All you want to do is VERY GENTLY warm up the food, I use about 6 SECONDS on high. What you are looking for is to remove the coldness of the food - which activates the SMELL of the food. Do not make the food hot! ( The heat could damage the pill that you are trying to feed them, and not many cats will eat hot food anyway.) Now that you have a very gently warmed serve of food it is time to add the pill. Just sprinkle the crushed pill over the wet, warm chicken and serve it up!
Note : Always add the Pill LAST!
Fish : Raw
If you want to use raw fish as a pill serving food then it pays to make sure that the cat in question likes the fish that you are going to use. ( Cats are fussy!) I have two cats, one eats fish at every opportunity, and the other will walk right past it and ask for something else..
So get a small piece of fish to test the cat with, and assuming that the fish is accepted it is easy to prepare. I use a pair of kitchen scissors to cut the fish into small pieces. A sharp knife is ok but the skin on fish is very tough, so for safety and ease of preparation I use scissors. Once you have the fish cut up all you need to do is sprinkle the powdered pill over the fish and serve it up. Raw fish is usually wet and quite smelly, so it doesn't require water to be added or the microwave to warm it up.
Fish : Cooked (cold)
To prepare a cooked cold fish you basically follow the steps outlined for cooked chicken. Prepare the pill, get a small bit of cooked fish and cut or break it up into small pieces. Make it wet, drain off the excess water and zap it in the microwave for a few seconds - do not make the food hot! Add the crushed pill to the warm wet fish and serve it up.
Note : Always add the Pill LAST!
The purpose of warming up the food is to make it smellier. Most food has a much stronger scent or smell when it is at room temperature than it does straight from the fridge.
If you need a small quantity of fresh raw fish it can usually be purchased from your local take away food shop. If you want to use cooked fish from a take away shop bear in mind that the batter or bread crumbs should be removed before it is served to the cat. (Well, it should be removed if your cat won't eat the fish with it still on there..) Also remember to cool the fish down to about room temperature before you add the pill - otherwise the heat may damage the pill.
Never microwave any pill - it could damage the active ingredients or even make them toxic to your pet.
By: Colin Visser
18 Jan 2008
Caring for an Older Cat - Cat Health and Cat Care
by NS Kennedy
Cats are living longer lives thanks to dedicated care from their humans, and advances in veterinary medicine. Most experts consider a cat's "senior years" to begin on her 10th birthday. After this point, the aging process begins to slow in even the most playful feline. Yet, with a little extra attention from her owner, Miss Kitty might enjoy another 5-10 years of life and love.
Just as with humans, cats often lose the ability to hear as they age. This often goes unnoticed by owners, who might chalk their cat's lack of response to typical feline aloofness. Without keen hearing and vision, however, an older cat is more vulnerable to threats from cars and dogs on the street. It is best to keep an older cat indoors. If she loves the fresh air, make sure you supervise her in a protected area.
Even the most easygoing cat can become a finicky eater in her later years. As an older cat's senses of smell and taste begin to diminish, she becomes less interested in her food. Adding moist food and warming her meals will amplify the scent and make it more tantalizing. Moist food will increase the amount of water in your cat's diet.
It is important to keep fresh water available for your older cat, and to monitor her drinking habits. Her natural thirst drive can fade with age, causing her to become dangerously dehydrated rather quickly. Take note of about how much water your cat drinks each day. If the amount suddenly drops, and you know she is not getting water from any other source, contact your veterinarian.
Remember that there have been huge advances in medical care for cats in recent years. Online shopping for cat medication has become popular, but remember that there is no substitute for regular check-ups with your veterinarian.
Common problems owners see their geriatric cats develop include difficulties swallowing due to decreased saliva production, less tolerance to extreme heat and/or cold, gum disease and tooth loss, a change in litter habits, and not sleeping well.
Recent studies have uncovered a problem with potassium balance in many older cats. Poor coat condition, loss of appetite and lethargy have been linked to a mild form of hypokalemia, or low blood potassium. Low blood potassium damages the cat's kidneys, which, in an older cat, are already weakening. This leads to a vicious cycle because declining kidney function increases the loss of potassium in the blood, which in turn causes further deterioration of the kidneys.
Arthritis and stiffness is fairly common in older cats. Because it becomes more difficult to move, a geriatric cat spends more time sleeping. If her diet stays the same, she'll begin to pack on the pounds. The extra weight adds to her discomfort, making her more inclined not to move. Without exercise her muscles will weaken. It is important to encourage an older cat into some activity every day. Physical movement will help with digestion and bowel function, as well as keep her sharp mentally.
An older cat spends less time grooming herself than in her youth. As a result, her hair becomes dry and painfully matted. Regular grooming from her owner is required to keep her coat healthy and beautiful. Daily brushing removes loose hair that can form uncomfortable hairballs in her stomach.
As your cat gets older its important that she is comfortable. You should ensure that your cat has a comfortable, warm bed that she can stretch out on. Cushions and hammock bed on radiators are popular.
Cats are living longer lives thanks to dedicated care from their humans, and advances in veterinary medicine. Most experts consider a cat's "senior years" to begin on her 10th birthday. After this point, the aging process begins to slow in even the most playful feline. Yet, with a little extra attention from her owner, Miss Kitty might enjoy another 5-10 years of life and love.
Just as with humans, cats often lose the ability to hear as they age. This often goes unnoticed by owners, who might chalk their cat's lack of response to typical feline aloofness. Without keen hearing and vision, however, an older cat is more vulnerable to threats from cars and dogs on the street. It is best to keep an older cat indoors. If she loves the fresh air, make sure you supervise her in a protected area.
Even the most easygoing cat can become a finicky eater in her later years. As an older cat's senses of smell and taste begin to diminish, she becomes less interested in her food. Adding moist food and warming her meals will amplify the scent and make it more tantalizing. Moist food will increase the amount of water in your cat's diet.
It is important to keep fresh water available for your older cat, and to monitor her drinking habits. Her natural thirst drive can fade with age, causing her to become dangerously dehydrated rather quickly. Take note of about how much water your cat drinks each day. If the amount suddenly drops, and you know she is not getting water from any other source, contact your veterinarian.
Remember that there have been huge advances in medical care for cats in recent years. Online shopping for cat medication has become popular, but remember that there is no substitute for regular check-ups with your veterinarian.
Common problems owners see their geriatric cats develop include difficulties swallowing due to decreased saliva production, less tolerance to extreme heat and/or cold, gum disease and tooth loss, a change in litter habits, and not sleeping well.
Recent studies have uncovered a problem with potassium balance in many older cats. Poor coat condition, loss of appetite and lethargy have been linked to a mild form of hypokalemia, or low blood potassium. Low blood potassium damages the cat's kidneys, which, in an older cat, are already weakening. This leads to a vicious cycle because declining kidney function increases the loss of potassium in the blood, which in turn causes further deterioration of the kidneys.
Arthritis and stiffness is fairly common in older cats. Because it becomes more difficult to move, a geriatric cat spends more time sleeping. If her diet stays the same, she'll begin to pack on the pounds. The extra weight adds to her discomfort, making her more inclined not to move. Without exercise her muscles will weaken. It is important to encourage an older cat into some activity every day. Physical movement will help with digestion and bowel function, as well as keep her sharp mentally.
An older cat spends less time grooming herself than in her youth. As a result, her hair becomes dry and painfully matted. Regular grooming from her owner is required to keep her coat healthy and beautiful. Daily brushing removes loose hair that can form uncomfortable hairballs in her stomach.
As your cat gets older its important that she is comfortable. You should ensure that your cat has a comfortable, warm bed that she can stretch out on. Cushions and hammock bed on radiators are popular.
17 Jan 2008
How To Choose The Cat?
Before you select a cat, you need to decide which breed is right, not only for you, but also for the rest of your family. So follow this short guide to help you with the selection of your new pet.
Vocal Breeds
Consider whether or not you would like a vocal companion. Seriously, some cats can be pretty noisy. And although you may not find this to be an issue, local neighbors - especially in compact apartment arrangements - can find this annoying, especially at night.
Some cat breeds that are a bit heavy on the vocal side include: the Burmese, the Siamese Cat and the Korat. On the other end of the spectrum are: the American Curl, the Scottish Fold, and the Somali - all referred to as very quiet cats.
Cuddle Factor
You also need to consider if you prefer a cat that seeks attention and is cuddly. Or maybe you'd refer one that is aloof? Cuddly cats need lots more attention, but also give you more back in return, too. And cuddly pets such as these are usually better around children.
Some friendly cats are the Abyssinian, Tonkinese, Maine Coon, Snowshoe, Ragdoll and Himalayan Persian. More aloof cats include the Nebelung, the Norwegian Forest Cat and the Russian Shorthair.
Bad Hair Day
An important point to ponder is hair. Do you prefer long hair, not caring so much about grooming and shedding involved, or do you prefer to keep things simple with short hair breeds?
Note: long hair can get matted and messy and require a trip to the groomer or vet for shaving - while the cat is under sedation. So consider whether you have the time, tools and patience to help with grooming regularly.
Age
Last but not least, decide if you prefer to raise your pet from early on; i.e. do you want a kitten? Or would you like to maybe help with a rescue of an older animal?
So wrap it up, consider all of the factors above before you choose your new cat. Look over the different characteristics and the various cat breeds of interest before you begin to seek out your new pet.
Check online for more information about cats. And reach out and call around to your local pet stores and to your local Humane Society chapter with more concerns you may have about cats.
by : Renske Buursma
Vocal Breeds
Consider whether or not you would like a vocal companion. Seriously, some cats can be pretty noisy. And although you may not find this to be an issue, local neighbors - especially in compact apartment arrangements - can find this annoying, especially at night.
Some cat breeds that are a bit heavy on the vocal side include: the Burmese, the Siamese Cat and the Korat. On the other end of the spectrum are: the American Curl, the Scottish Fold, and the Somali - all referred to as very quiet cats.
Cuddle Factor
You also need to consider if you prefer a cat that seeks attention and is cuddly. Or maybe you'd refer one that is aloof? Cuddly cats need lots more attention, but also give you more back in return, too. And cuddly pets such as these are usually better around children.
Some friendly cats are the Abyssinian, Tonkinese, Maine Coon, Snowshoe, Ragdoll and Himalayan Persian. More aloof cats include the Nebelung, the Norwegian Forest Cat and the Russian Shorthair.
Bad Hair Day
An important point to ponder is hair. Do you prefer long hair, not caring so much about grooming and shedding involved, or do you prefer to keep things simple with short hair breeds?
Note: long hair can get matted and messy and require a trip to the groomer or vet for shaving - while the cat is under sedation. So consider whether you have the time, tools and patience to help with grooming regularly.
Age
Last but not least, decide if you prefer to raise your pet from early on; i.e. do you want a kitten? Or would you like to maybe help with a rescue of an older animal?
So wrap it up, consider all of the factors above before you choose your new cat. Look over the different characteristics and the various cat breeds of interest before you begin to seek out your new pet.
Check online for more information about cats. And reach out and call around to your local pet stores and to your local Humane Society chapter with more concerns you may have about cats.
by : Renske Buursma
11 Nov 2007
Adult Cats are Fun Too - Adopt An Older Cat
You’ve finally made the decision to adopt a cat, you’ve dreamt about it for quite some time. Visualising your cute new little kitten playing around the floor and looking up at you with those big baby blues. What could possibly go wrong, after all it’s only a tiny kitten. But have your really thought about how much time, effort and trouble a kitten really is. A kitten is packed full of energy and curiosity and will cry for attention, scratch the furniture, bite and urinate everywhere until it is litter box trained, and will run around the house getting into all sorts of scrapes and trouble. And it’s up to you to look after them 24/7. If you’ve got the time and dedication to look after a kitten, great, but if not, why not think about adopting an adult cat.
A lot of potential adopters seem to think of an adult cat as second best, as if they are defective or worn out like a second hand car. That’s just not the case. Most adult cats have found themselves in animal shelters from no fault of their own. They may have out lived their owner, their owners may have moved to somewhere that doesn’t allow pets, become lost or someone in the family may have become allergic to them. The reasons are far to numerous to list them all. The cats themselves are perfectly healthy animals, bristling with fun and energy and simply looking for a caring loving home.
Adopting an adult cat has many advantages. Remember an older cat has already developed its personality. So you will know what kind of pet they will be and whether or not they will suit your family. Many people go for the cute little kitten; only to find out that they grow into a very shy and non-playful cat that likes to spend all it’s time away from the family. That’s fine if that’s what you want, but too many people decide that this is not for them and returns the cat to the shelter. Rejection is a very harsh punishment for the cat just because you didn’t take the time to think about what sort of cat would be the right pet for your family.
An older cat will also be less demanding of your time than a kitten and will require less supervision, well after the first few weeks anyway. They will be able to spend time alone when you are out of the house without getting into too much trouble and hopefully will already be litter trained.
There are also many benefits for older owners in adopting an adult cat. Adult cats are much calmer and more likely to want to spend some quiet time sitting on your lap for strokes and purring. Studies have shown that cats can have a real health benefit for humans in reducing their stress levels and blood pressure. I can’t image an energetic curious kitten being as good for your stress levels somehow.
Many worry about health problems and vet bills for the older cat. Usually when you are adopting a cat from an animal shelter they will be able to let you know if the cat has any underlining medical conditions and what it is likely to cost. Many will even provide you with free medical treatment for your cat if they over 10 years old as an incentive for more of the older cats to be re-homed.
Cats can live well into their late teens and even early twenties with all the advances in food nutrition and medical treatments. So that 12 year old cat waiting in the animal shelter for a good home is still a good bet and will still be able to provide you with many years of fun and love. Our own cat is now 14 years old and still behaves like a playful youngster and keeps us entertained for hours.
It can be a very rewarding experience to adopt an older cat, not only because of the pleasure they will give you over the years but also in the knowledge that you have provided a loving home for what was probably a very frightened and confused cat, who had no idea why he had lost his family.
You will find more cat health and cat care advice on Kates website
http://www.our-happy-cat.com A feline friendly community full of advice and fun to make sure you have a happy cat and a happy you.
Copyright 2007 Kate Tilmouth
A lot of potential adopters seem to think of an adult cat as second best, as if they are defective or worn out like a second hand car. That’s just not the case. Most adult cats have found themselves in animal shelters from no fault of their own. They may have out lived their owner, their owners may have moved to somewhere that doesn’t allow pets, become lost or someone in the family may have become allergic to them. The reasons are far to numerous to list them all. The cats themselves are perfectly healthy animals, bristling with fun and energy and simply looking for a caring loving home.
Adopting an adult cat has many advantages. Remember an older cat has already developed its personality. So you will know what kind of pet they will be and whether or not they will suit your family. Many people go for the cute little kitten; only to find out that they grow into a very shy and non-playful cat that likes to spend all it’s time away from the family. That’s fine if that’s what you want, but too many people decide that this is not for them and returns the cat to the shelter. Rejection is a very harsh punishment for the cat just because you didn’t take the time to think about what sort of cat would be the right pet for your family.
An older cat will also be less demanding of your time than a kitten and will require less supervision, well after the first few weeks anyway. They will be able to spend time alone when you are out of the house without getting into too much trouble and hopefully will already be litter trained.
There are also many benefits for older owners in adopting an adult cat. Adult cats are much calmer and more likely to want to spend some quiet time sitting on your lap for strokes and purring. Studies have shown that cats can have a real health benefit for humans in reducing their stress levels and blood pressure. I can’t image an energetic curious kitten being as good for your stress levels somehow.
Many worry about health problems and vet bills for the older cat. Usually when you are adopting a cat from an animal shelter they will be able to let you know if the cat has any underlining medical conditions and what it is likely to cost. Many will even provide you with free medical treatment for your cat if they over 10 years old as an incentive for more of the older cats to be re-homed.
Cats can live well into their late teens and even early twenties with all the advances in food nutrition and medical treatments. So that 12 year old cat waiting in the animal shelter for a good home is still a good bet and will still be able to provide you with many years of fun and love. Our own cat is now 14 years old and still behaves like a playful youngster and keeps us entertained for hours.
It can be a very rewarding experience to adopt an older cat, not only because of the pleasure they will give you over the years but also in the knowledge that you have provided a loving home for what was probably a very frightened and confused cat, who had no idea why he had lost his family.
About The Author
Kate TilmouthYou will find more cat health and cat care advice on Kates website
http://www.our-happy-cat.com A feline friendly community full of advice and fun to make sure you have a happy cat and a happy you.
Copyright 2007 Kate Tilmouth
5 Nov 2007
Allergic To Your Dog Or Cat?
Pets definitely help us live longer and healthier lives. This is especially true of the elderly and those of us who live alone. Pets make wonderful and faithful companions. They are always there for us. However, this relationship can become strained, and sometimes even be broken when someone in the household develops an allergy to a beloved pet.
Studies show that approximately 15% of the population suffers from an allergy to a dog or cat, and about one third of those with an allergy to cats choose to live in a household with a cat despite the allergy. Some allergy suffers live happily with a pet for a year or two before an allergy starts.
There are sometimes long term health ramifications of repeated allergy flair up's, especially for children. Repeated flair-up's can cause permanent lung damage in children. This should be carefully and thoroughly discussed with your physician. One of the ways to live happily with an animal you are allergic to is to decrease your exposure to the animal. Keep the animal outside if possible.
If the allergy sufferer only has a mild reaction to the animal there are ways for the two of them to live together in harmony, but it takes work. The animal should not be allowed in the allergy sufferers bedroom or on the bed. Keep the animal off of any upholstered furniture in the house as dander can be transferred to upholstered furniture. Use a room purifier to remove airborne animal dander. Remove carpets from the home if possible and replace with wood floors. Wash area rugs on a regular basis with warm water. Use a vacuum with a HEPA filter in order to trap dander. The allergy sufferer should wash his or her face and hands after handling the animal. The animal can be bathed weekly in specially formulated shampoo that removes dander.
In some cases where the above methods and the use of over the counter antihistamines and decongestants do not help, the allergy sufferer may need to seek the help of an allergist. Immunotherapy can be thought of like a vaccination against your allergies. Given on a regular basis as shots, immunotherapy helps your body build up a natural tolerance to specific allergens.
With the use of the above methods you'll be able to live a long and healthy life with your pet!
About the author: This article courtesy of http://www.allergies-facts.com
2 Nov 2007
Feral Cats - Society's Problem Children
There is a lot of talk going on about what to do with the issue of feral cat population.
Some measures have been proposed which will allow residents to kill what they perceive to be feral cats on their property. This suggestion has caused a bit of a stir, and amongst cat lovers, it is quite understandable. Cats are natural wanderers and a treasured feline may make a mischievous dash out of its home only to find itself hunted quarry on a neighboring property.
There are more humane solutions being practiced right now which entail trapping feral cats, neutering and then releasing them back to their environment (TNR). Critics of this method maintain that the problem of cat predation on local small animal populations still exists after neutering, and that a continuous supply of stray cats are finding their fertile way into these feral communities every day. Thus, they maintain, any positive gains realized by the TNR program are being constantly negated by the actions, or inactions, of irresponsible pet owners.
There doesn't appear to be any immediate, cut and dry solution to feral cats at present except to keep employing the TNR program and educating the public about how to be accountable for their cats. Local laws can be enacted to impose fines on owners whose cats are caught wandering on a frequent basis. Social pressure can be fostered in the form of campaigns that suggest it is absolutely not cool and downright irresponsible to have unneutered or unspayed cats wandering around. This, of course, would not be applied to owners of show and working cats where planned breeding is necessary for their specific breed.
It comes down to the fact that over 64% of U.S. households have pets, and the majority of these pets are considered as family members. Cats are the rebellious, independent members of the family unit. They shouldn't be left to their own devices or discarded like disposable lighters. Similar to any wayward teenager of a family, special measures and tolerances have to be adopted in order to get the loved ones through a difficult time in their lives and bring them back into the fold of family unity. Cats are a bit different in that they are wayward children for life, however, they can be conditioned to accept a house-bound lifestyle. Having them spayed or neutered (we're talking about cats now - not teenagers) will help temper their wanderlust a little, and there are some great outdoor "playpens" and containment systems designed just for the benefit of felines. Some cats can even be leash trained for nightly walks, however, that may not be particularly healthy for you or the cat if there are too many unleashed dogs in the neighborhood.
Do what you can to help alleviate the problem of cats turning feral. The animal welfare organizations and volunteers are doing what they can to deal with the current populations by using TNR, rescuing and adopting of cats. But the flow of new, fertile domestic cats into the feral communities must be stopped at the family, neighborhood and regional level. This is accomplished through public awareness campaigns, teaching school children about responsible pet ownership, social pressure and individual involvement. It's a long uphill road, yet it can be accomplished, one or two kitties at a time.
To sign up for the monthly Critterbytes Ezine, go to Pet Shelter Pages
About the author: To sign up for the monthly Critterbytes Ezine, go to Pet Shelter Pages and select the State you live in. There you will find listings of local animal welfare organizations and a sign up box for the ezine.
Protect Your Cat With Vaccinations
If you want to enjoy the companionship of a healthy and happy cat, 1 of the most important things you can do is to safeguard its health. Vaccinations can protect your cat from many common cat diseases.
Weaned From Mother's Immunity
When your kitten is 6 to 8 weeks old, you should begin his vaccinations. Before this time, the mother's antibodies have been protecting him. Once he is weaned, however, he will need to develop antibodies of his own.
The Vital First Visit
The first office visit is when your veterinarian will give your kitten a complete physical examination. A fecal exam is normally done to assure that your kitten doesn't have worms. Prior to vaccinations, your veterinarian should do a blood test to be sure the kitten is not already infected with Feline Leukemia. The vet may also test for Feline Infectious Peritonitis. These tests are quick, and your veterinarian will have preliminary results in minutes.
If your kitten is not already infected with 1 of these diseases, the vet will give your kitten his first Feline Leukemia and FIP vaccines, assuming if he is at risk for these diseases. An only cat who never leaves home may not need these vaccines, in which case your veterinarian may recommend against giving them.
Whether he leaves the house or not, your kitten should receive his first FVRCPC vaccine. This combination vaccine protects kittens from rhinotracheitis, calicivirus, panleukopenia and chlamydia.
Follow-Up Vaccines And Worming
Within 2 to 4 weeks your kitten should visit the veterinarian again, at the age of 8 to 12 weeks. This time he will get a second round of shots for FVRCPC, Feline Leukemia, and FIP. If your kitten was wormed during his first visit, the vet will give him his second worming. If your kitten is at least 12 weeks old and spends time outdoors, he should also receive his first Rabies vaccine.
Your kitten's third visit to the veterinarian takes place when he is 10 to 16 weeks old, when he will receive his third FVRCPC vaccine. Kittens who were too young for their first Rabies vaccine on their previous visit will receive it at this time.
The First Birthday Visit
After completing his third set of FVRCPC vaccines, your kitten will not need any more injections until he is 1 year old. At that time he will need Rabies and FVRCPC booster shots. If the Rabies shot is given to your cat within 1 year of his first Rabies vaccine, it will be good for 3 years. Your cat will need to return each year, however, for the FVRCPC vaccine. When your cat is 1 year of age, he will also receive boosters for FIP and Feline Leukemia if he received these vaccines as a kitten.
Rare Side Effects
Most of the time vaccines are quite safe, yet occasionally side effects can occur. Vaccines for Feline Leukemia can sometimes cause a form of cancer at the site of the injection. For this reason veterinarians usually do not recommend the vaccine for cats who are not at risk. A tumor can sometimes occur at the site of other vaccinations, as well. This type of tumor can often be removed before it spreads. Should you notice a lump developing at the injection site, call your veterinarian without delay. These lumps usually are a simple allergic reaction to the injection, but a lump can develop into a tumor, which, if caught early, can be successfully removed.
The risk of catching a disease without vaccinations is much higher than the risk of side effects. Just as with humans, shots are an unpleasant, but necessary part of growing up healthy.
About the author: Visit New Cat to learn more. Copyright 2005 Ron King. Ron King is a full-time researcher, writer, and web developer. This article may be reprinted if the resource box is left intact.
1 Nov 2007
The 5 Things You Should Know Before Breeding Cats
The cat population is astronomical. Most experts agree that average cat owners should spay their cat, not breed. Still there are people who want to have a litter from their pet. But there�s a lot to think about before planning a feline family.
Here are five things you should know:
1. It takes time. You�ll have to clean the nest every day, for two months. You should keep an eye on the kittens and watch their development � you won�t have time for a holiday.
2. It takes space. It�s not a good idea to breed if you have a 3-room apartment. Your family members should agree with your plan of having kittens. You can�t lock up these little balls of fur. They�ll go everywhere - in your partner�s study, in your baby�s bedroom, your kitchen, your bathroom.
3. It takes responsibility. Do you know beforehand that you will find a good home for your kittens? Some of your friends or relatives will say �Yes, lovely, I�ll take one of them�. But one or another may change his/her mind once the moment is near. Are you willing to keep the kitten that nobody wants?
4. It takes education. Have you thought about what could happen at birth? Do you know how to cut an umbilical cord? What to do if a newborn remains in its fluid filled sac? What supplies you need? How to know when a c-section is necessary? What to feed a pregnant cat?
5. It takes money. Kittens cost more money than you probably think. It�s not only the food. Even if you go through pregnancy without a vet�s help, you need to have them vaccinated and dewormed.
Yes, there�s a lot to think about! However, if you really want to breed, make sure you get the right information, so you are prepared for the best and the worst.
About the author: Marc de Jong runs an acclaimed web site on cats and is the author of the book How To Take Care Of Your Pregnant Cat, available through http://www.pre gnant-cat-care.com The book is filled with insider tips and tells you how your cat can deliver and raise a healthy litter.
The Cat and the Evil Mower
�A coward dies a thousand deaths; a brave man dies but once.� Our cat Der Doc proved that this applies to cats as well.
Caution was the watchword in Der Doc�s life. He was a grey cat, striped like a tiger but decidedly without the tiger�s courage. Daddy said, �He�s the original scaredy-cat.�
Der Doc had the run of our farm in the Bitterroot Valley of Montana, and the farm had multitudes of opportunities for a diligent cat. The chief opportunities lay with barn mice during the winter and field mice in the summer. Der Doc regularly partook of these opportunities. Cautiously, of course.
How ironic it was that his most searing experience took place when he was cautiously minding his own business. His business being a field mouse in our hayfield, as Daddy drove the John Deere tractor into the field and began mowing the alfalfa.
We children were never allowed in the field when Daddy was mowing hay, because the sickle on the mower extended out eight feet from the tractor. You couldn�t see that sickle coming, as the uncut alfalfa in front of it hid it. �Cut your little feeties right off, and you�d never know what hit you!� said Daddy. He would have given Der Doc the same warning if Der Doc had understood English. For on that sad day the uncut alfalfa hid Der Doc as well as the sickle.
Fortunately the worst did not happen. Der Doc did not have his little feeties cut right off, but he did lose the last two inches of his tail as he belatedly fled.
Bleeding profusely, Der Doc ran to the safest place he knew, the inside of our house. Everyone was tremendously sympathetic. My little brother asked, �Is it all right to pray for a cat?� Learning that it was, he prayed fervently. Daddy probably did too. He felt terrible about what happened. I was away at camp that week, but when Der Doc decided my bed with its snowy white bedspread was the best place to convalesce, everyone was sure I would want him to sleep there, so he did.
I came home to a bloody bedspread and a traumatized cat. For the rest of his life, Der Doc felt that only vast distance could protect him from a John Deere tractor. As soon as he heard the distinctive put-put-put of its engine, he put not one but several fields between him and the tractor and did not return until the tractor was through with its day�s work.
About the author: Enjoy our cat mystery sleuth and find gifts and stories for cat lovers, at Janette Blackwell�s Cats and Flowers, http://catsandflowers.com -- or visit her at Food and Fiction, http://foodandfiction.com/Entrance.html
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