by NS Kennedy
Cats are living longer lives thanks to dedicated care from their humans, and advances in veterinary medicine. Most experts consider a cat's "senior years" to begin on her 10th birthday. After this point, the aging process begins to slow in even the most playful feline. Yet, with a little extra attention from her owner, Miss Kitty might enjoy another 5-10 years of life and love.
Just as with humans, cats often lose the ability to hear as they age. This often goes unnoticed by owners, who might chalk their cat's lack of response to typical feline aloofness. Without keen hearing and vision, however, an older cat is more vulnerable to threats from cars and dogs on the street. It is best to keep an older cat indoors. If she loves the fresh air, make sure you supervise her in a protected area.
Even the most easygoing cat can become a finicky eater in her later years. As an older cat's senses of smell and taste begin to diminish, she becomes less interested in her food. Adding moist food and warming her meals will amplify the scent and make it more tantalizing. Moist food will increase the amount of water in your cat's diet.
It is important to keep fresh water available for your older cat, and to monitor her drinking habits. Her natural thirst drive can fade with age, causing her to become dangerously dehydrated rather quickly. Take note of about how much water your cat drinks each day. If the amount suddenly drops, and you know she is not getting water from any other source, contact your veterinarian.
Remember that there have been huge advances in medical care for cats in recent years. Online shopping for cat medication has become popular, but remember that there is no substitute for regular check-ups with your veterinarian.
Common problems owners see their geriatric cats develop include difficulties swallowing due to decreased saliva production, less tolerance to extreme heat and/or cold, gum disease and tooth loss, a change in litter habits, and not sleeping well.
Recent studies have uncovered a problem with potassium balance in many older cats. Poor coat condition, loss of appetite and lethargy have been linked to a mild form of hypokalemia, or low blood potassium. Low blood potassium damages the cat's kidneys, which, in an older cat, are already weakening. This leads to a vicious cycle because declining kidney function increases the loss of potassium in the blood, which in turn causes further deterioration of the kidneys.
Arthritis and stiffness is fairly common in older cats. Because it becomes more difficult to move, a geriatric cat spends more time sleeping. If her diet stays the same, she'll begin to pack on the pounds. The extra weight adds to her discomfort, making her more inclined not to move. Without exercise her muscles will weaken. It is important to encourage an older cat into some activity every day. Physical movement will help with digestion and bowel function, as well as keep her sharp mentally.
An older cat spends less time grooming herself than in her youth. As a result, her hair becomes dry and painfully matted. Regular grooming from her owner is required to keep her coat healthy and beautiful. Daily brushing removes loose hair that can form uncomfortable hairballs in her stomach.
As your cat gets older its important that she is comfortable. You should ensure that your cat has a comfortable, warm bed that she can stretch out on. Cushions and hammock bed on radiators are popular.
18 Jan 2008
Why Difficulties In Horse Training A Good Thing
by Andy Curry
I'll never forget one of the first horses I trained by myself. I could not have picked a better horse to give me problems.
This horse was slow to motivate. He was very much his own "person" so to speak and was going to do what he pleased...at least...that's how it seemed.
There are plenty of horses in this world that will move when you want them to move. In fact, some horses can be so nervous it takes little effort to get them moving in the round pen. In a way, they almost train themselves.
When I was first training this horse he moved slowly and not very deliberately. Teaching him to drive was very difficult because he just wasn't going to move for me.
The first time I put a surcingle on him and attached the lines he had no more intention on moving forward than an elephant with no legs.
The lesson I was teaching was to move forward. When you want your horse to move then, obviously, you want him to move...not stand there.
A typical way to teach moving forward and associating the action with a command is to get behind your horse and to the left a little. Then give a slight pull on the left rein, then say "step" or "get up" and tap him on his rear end with the whip.
Most every horse I worked with, this technique worked well. But the technique failed with this horse.
Whenever I tapped him on the butt he would either stand there and blink his eyes or he would turn around and just look at me.
To the trained trainer it may seem he was balking. In fact, that's what I feared was happening.
The next thing I tried to get him moving was a hog slapper. A hog slapper is a small pole like aid with a handle on one end and two pieces of leather on the other end. When you slap the leather end against your boots it makes a loud slapping sound.
It was the loud slapping sound I was hoping would motivate the horse to move. Here's what happened.
Nothing.
The horse didn't take any steps forward to get away from it. It scared him a little the first two or three times I slapped it on my boot, but that's all it did.
Frustrated and bewildered I wasn't sure what to do next.
I began to analyze the situation. I knew the tap with the whip wasn't working so I didn't need to repeat trying it. I knew the hog slapper didn't work so I didn't need to repeat that either.
So I asked myself, "What can I use to motivate this horse to move?"
I got the answer from Jesse Beery.
Jesse Beery, a famous horse trainer from the 1800's, taught training a horse to drive in much the same way I do it. Even the tap on the rear end with the whip is the same.
In teaching a horse to overcome fears and desensitizing him to sounds, Beery prescribes using metal bowls strung together like a wind chime on rope. These bowls make quite a racket when you shake them. Used as Beery describes, they are extremely effective in horse training.
So I thought these noise makers would motivate my horse to move. After all, they are loud and obnoxious when they clank together and make noise.
So I tacked up the horse, grabbed my noise maker, and tried again.
As I was fumbling with the lines and the noise maker trying to get situated, I nearly dropped the noise maker and it made a pretty good racket. Almost the second it rattled, the horse moved away from it.
Immediately I had a glimmer of hope that this was my answer.
So I tried it all again. I gave a slight pull on the left line, I then said "get up", and then I rattled the bowls.
The result?
Nothing except the horse raising his head and looking behind him a little. But I knew that meant I was getting his attention.
So I tried it again.
This time, he took about 3 steps forward and stopped. I was thrilled. I walked up to him and rewarded him with a caress.
Then I stepped back and did it again.
It wasn't long before I didn't have to use my noise maker anymore. All I had to do was say "get up" and he'd move. Not only did he move, he moved with energy.
Although this horse was very frustrating I must admit I am grateful to him. Why? Because he taught me valuable lessons.
The first lesson I relearned was patience.
The second lesson was that not everything will work on the same way on every horse. This was a lesson I already knew but it was reinforced.
The third lesson learned was to reexamine what I knew about horses and use that knowledge to get him doing what I needed him to do. That's why I tried the noise maker.
I knew certain noises frighten horses so I decided to manipulate his fear with the noise maker. I also knew to be careful not to terrorize him. After all, you want to use as little of that kind of motivation as possible. Only use what is just enough.
Fourth, he taught me to keep looking for an answer because one exists even though I didn't know it at the time.
Fifth, if I ever run across another horse that's hard to motivate to move, then I will pull out my noise makers because it worked before.
As I patted myself on the back for coming up with the noise maker idea I was actually feeling grateful for having such a difficult horse. I realized having a difficult horse was a great teacher to me - and I have absolutely loved having difficult horses since.
I'll never forget one of the first horses I trained by myself. I could not have picked a better horse to give me problems.
This horse was slow to motivate. He was very much his own "person" so to speak and was going to do what he pleased...at least...that's how it seemed.
There are plenty of horses in this world that will move when you want them to move. In fact, some horses can be so nervous it takes little effort to get them moving in the round pen. In a way, they almost train themselves.
When I was first training this horse he moved slowly and not very deliberately. Teaching him to drive was very difficult because he just wasn't going to move for me.
The first time I put a surcingle on him and attached the lines he had no more intention on moving forward than an elephant with no legs.
The lesson I was teaching was to move forward. When you want your horse to move then, obviously, you want him to move...not stand there.
A typical way to teach moving forward and associating the action with a command is to get behind your horse and to the left a little. Then give a slight pull on the left rein, then say "step" or "get up" and tap him on his rear end with the whip.
Most every horse I worked with, this technique worked well. But the technique failed with this horse.
Whenever I tapped him on the butt he would either stand there and blink his eyes or he would turn around and just look at me.
To the trained trainer it may seem he was balking. In fact, that's what I feared was happening.
The next thing I tried to get him moving was a hog slapper. A hog slapper is a small pole like aid with a handle on one end and two pieces of leather on the other end. When you slap the leather end against your boots it makes a loud slapping sound.
It was the loud slapping sound I was hoping would motivate the horse to move. Here's what happened.
Nothing.
The horse didn't take any steps forward to get away from it. It scared him a little the first two or three times I slapped it on my boot, but that's all it did.
Frustrated and bewildered I wasn't sure what to do next.
I began to analyze the situation. I knew the tap with the whip wasn't working so I didn't need to repeat trying it. I knew the hog slapper didn't work so I didn't need to repeat that either.
So I asked myself, "What can I use to motivate this horse to move?"
I got the answer from Jesse Beery.
Jesse Beery, a famous horse trainer from the 1800's, taught training a horse to drive in much the same way I do it. Even the tap on the rear end with the whip is the same.
In teaching a horse to overcome fears and desensitizing him to sounds, Beery prescribes using metal bowls strung together like a wind chime on rope. These bowls make quite a racket when you shake them. Used as Beery describes, they are extremely effective in horse training.
So I thought these noise makers would motivate my horse to move. After all, they are loud and obnoxious when they clank together and make noise.
So I tacked up the horse, grabbed my noise maker, and tried again.
As I was fumbling with the lines and the noise maker trying to get situated, I nearly dropped the noise maker and it made a pretty good racket. Almost the second it rattled, the horse moved away from it.
Immediately I had a glimmer of hope that this was my answer.
So I tried it all again. I gave a slight pull on the left line, I then said "get up", and then I rattled the bowls.
The result?
Nothing except the horse raising his head and looking behind him a little. But I knew that meant I was getting his attention.
So I tried it again.
This time, he took about 3 steps forward and stopped. I was thrilled. I walked up to him and rewarded him with a caress.
Then I stepped back and did it again.
It wasn't long before I didn't have to use my noise maker anymore. All I had to do was say "get up" and he'd move. Not only did he move, he moved with energy.
Although this horse was very frustrating I must admit I am grateful to him. Why? Because he taught me valuable lessons.
The first lesson I relearned was patience.
The second lesson was that not everything will work on the same way on every horse. This was a lesson I already knew but it was reinforced.
The third lesson learned was to reexamine what I knew about horses and use that knowledge to get him doing what I needed him to do. That's why I tried the noise maker.
I knew certain noises frighten horses so I decided to manipulate his fear with the noise maker. I also knew to be careful not to terrorize him. After all, you want to use as little of that kind of motivation as possible. Only use what is just enough.
Fourth, he taught me to keep looking for an answer because one exists even though I didn't know it at the time.
Fifth, if I ever run across another horse that's hard to motivate to move, then I will pull out my noise makers because it worked before.
As I patted myself on the back for coming up with the noise maker idea I was actually feeling grateful for having such a difficult horse. I realized having a difficult horse was a great teacher to me - and I have absolutely loved having difficult horses since.
17 Jan 2008
6 Basic Tips for Training your Dogs.
How you go about basic dog training depends on several things. You want to take into consideration what kind of dog it is, what dog behavior training you are trying to accomplish, and how old the dog is. But it is important to note that it is never too late to teach a dog a new trick. Here are 6 basic dog training tips to keep in mind.
1) Positive
The key thing to remember is that this is a fun process to teach your dog something new. Therefore, make sure to constantly offer positive affirmations in the form of verbal praise and treats. Whenever the dog does something correctly make sure they know it.
2) Patience
It can be difficult being patient but it is a process that is not going to happen in one session. You have to be willing to give it time and over a period of training sessions your dog will learn. Your dog will pick up on your emotions so hide those feelings of anxiety and anger and keep it positive.
3) Consistency
Consistency is vital with dog behavior training. Training your dog one day and then skipping a few will not get the job done. The more consistent you are the quicker your dog will pick up the trick you are teaching. However, it is not a bad thing to take one day off here and there to give them a break.
4) No distractions
To get the most out of your basic dog training, try to pick a spot that eliminates any kinds of distractions. While this may be difficult to find, try to pick a quiet spot free of people or other dogs. Going in the backyard or an inside room typically are the best locations.
5) Short and sweet
The last thing you or your dog wants is a two hour training session each day. Around fifteen minutes is the perfect time for dogs to learn simple commands. Always make sure to stick with one command or trick per session and do not overlap the tricks within each fifteen minutes. And remember, praise is essential when your dog does something correctly.
6) Above All Else - FUN! FUN! FUN!
Although this is quite repetitive, it is essential that you keep each session fun and lighthearted. Your dog will feed off of your emotions and if you are having a good time they will enjoy it as well. If your dog makes a mistake, you can be firm but friendly at the same time. And after each fifteen minute session, play with your dog for a while.
Over time you will begin to build an even greater bond with your dog as you both learn to trust in each other through these lessons. This will help you on the path to a long and loving relationship with your best friend. It will also provide the foundations for a well mannered and behaved dog who will be a joy to have around the family, and in the company of others.
1) Positive
The key thing to remember is that this is a fun process to teach your dog something new. Therefore, make sure to constantly offer positive affirmations in the form of verbal praise and treats. Whenever the dog does something correctly make sure they know it.
2) Patience
It can be difficult being patient but it is a process that is not going to happen in one session. You have to be willing to give it time and over a period of training sessions your dog will learn. Your dog will pick up on your emotions so hide those feelings of anxiety and anger and keep it positive.
3) Consistency
Consistency is vital with dog behavior training. Training your dog one day and then skipping a few will not get the job done. The more consistent you are the quicker your dog will pick up the trick you are teaching. However, it is not a bad thing to take one day off here and there to give them a break.
4) No distractions
To get the most out of your basic dog training, try to pick a spot that eliminates any kinds of distractions. While this may be difficult to find, try to pick a quiet spot free of people or other dogs. Going in the backyard or an inside room typically are the best locations.
5) Short and sweet
The last thing you or your dog wants is a two hour training session each day. Around fifteen minutes is the perfect time for dogs to learn simple commands. Always make sure to stick with one command or trick per session and do not overlap the tricks within each fifteen minutes. And remember, praise is essential when your dog does something correctly.
6) Above All Else - FUN! FUN! FUN!
Although this is quite repetitive, it is essential that you keep each session fun and lighthearted. Your dog will feed off of your emotions and if you are having a good time they will enjoy it as well. If your dog makes a mistake, you can be firm but friendly at the same time. And after each fifteen minute session, play with your dog for a while.
Over time you will begin to build an even greater bond with your dog as you both learn to trust in each other through these lessons. This will help you on the path to a long and loving relationship with your best friend. It will also provide the foundations for a well mannered and behaved dog who will be a joy to have around the family, and in the company of others.
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